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Your TS BB won't work unless the controller kit you bought is TS compatible, if you have bought a non TS controller kit then it will only work with generic std BB and a cadence PAS magnet/disc set up.

Those AR washers are another case where the Brand has over thought and designed things for the worse, making these pair of £1 items cost 30x what they need to. And the fact they are snapping in halve shows up a weakness. Again the user is tied in to expensive parts replacement where any other...

My trailer has a 90kg load rating, though I haven't quite had that load on it yet. My usual bike for errands and two full bags of shopping or up to 30kg of loading is my Cotic Roadrat self build it also has a tow hitch, for larger carrying ability I also have the Kona Ute with a tow hitch. My...

Why do you keep starting a new thread on the same topic ? This must be the third or forth one started, stick to one thread and keep all the info in one place as you will find the replies won't come because people get fed up with going around in the same circles all the time. We have told you...

Battery bars as a gauge are very unreliable to use as a fuel gauge, voltage is much better but best of all is a watt meter as it will use watt hours as a gauge. A 20.4ah 48v battery will be 980wh.

With a meter as WP has linked to, plug the charger into the wall socket and turn it on. Set the meter dial to 200v DC and take a voltage reading from the charger leads end connector, it should read 54.6v. The battery at 53.1v is not good and indicates a battery poorly balanced or one that is...

36v is approx. 40%, although not truly linear as an approximation 33v can be regarded as 10% and then one can do the simple maths.

Hello. Good to here some one else using the bike for all manner of cargo duties.

Do the basics and check the charger voltage, it should read 42v output. If not it is faulty. Also check the battery discharge voltage at the pins/contacts and tell us the reading.

39.2v is ok it is a tad over 70%.

Switch the charger on first and then connect to the battery, it may have been a dodgy fuse or the inrush was too much for it if the charge wasn't on.

At 700w the current draw will cause severe voltage sag, either the cells aren't capable of 30a continuous or the battery is knackered. Check the charger make sure it outputs 54.6v, if so charge the battery till the green light comes on then check the battery voltage. Let us know both voltages...

You have had the answers already, the battery is either knackered or or it can't deliver the current the controller asks for. 3of 4 bars isn't nearly fully charged it is about 60/70%, anything less then 54v fully charged needs investigating. If knackered a battery will still charge to 54.6v...

I didn't mention a throttle ?

One would think the implementation if at all viable will be from the date it is to be introduced or a form a preset given date. Who knows ?

It might, depends on how good the controller software is. Otherwise if worried about accidental activation leave the PAS in 0 or if it occurs because of pushing the bike backwards turn the display off.

Then cheapo single hall ones can't tell fwd's from backwards.

The previous offer was for the Safari step thru, one could buy a pair for 995, now that was a bargain.

Just type in dual hall in the title of your search.

It won't happen afaics.