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Error code 30 comes when the LCD can't communicate with the motor controller. That can be as simple as a corroded connector, so check that first, or it could be that the controller is completely dead. The communication system is powered by a 5v regulator in the controller, which also powers the...

On behalf of Les Boyd Hi, mine is an oxygen MTB-X and I had the electric motor renewed 2 years ago for which I had to pay for the full wheel assembly, just now I have got a code 30 and I am thinking here we go again, another £250, my handbook does not give details of the codes, could you please...

Maybe you should explain what you bought.

You shouldn't be messing with ebike stuff if you don't have a meter. It's absolutely essential equipment. You can do a lot of damage without one.

I think it'll work perfectly if you just get a 9-speed cassette. It'll work with 8 speed, but on some gears, you have to double click then one back.

Good because FS electric bikes parked in the same place every day don't seem to last very long.

See if you can put your time and electronics expertise to better use. If you want a project, see if you can find out why if you replace a solid state or wire shunt with a piece of 14g battery wire with the same resistance, the controller doesn't work.

Keep searching Ebay for Shimano M585 or M765 dual control levers like these. Price should be around £40 to £70 per wheel. Get then with the caliper joined to the lever by the hose for easy fitting. check the length of the hose, though it's nothing to lengthen one...

With the throttle connected and the controller switched on, measure the voltage on the signal wire while you operate the throttle to make sure it goes from about 1.2v to 3.8v. Also, make sure you have the throttle enabled in the settings (zero start). If everything is correct except the hall...

You just made me green with envy. That looks a really nice setup. Next step to make it perfect, change the brakes to hydraulics. What was the total cost?

You shouldn't be testing these combos with PAS when you don't know that the PAS works. use the throttle and check that you have the correct throttle signal voltage first, otherwise it could be a long day.

Try press and hold the switch for a few secs - or even as long as 10 secs. Maybe it has sleep mode. IIRC, that switch works the light in the back as well somehow. I think it has mult-functions. It's possible that the battery terminals at the front are permanently live. Did you test them?

International switch sign:

Exactly, that's why I gave you a link where to get one above.

Have you got a secure place to keep it at work?

I use a darning needle, a large paper clip, a piece of piano wire, a micro screwdriver set that I got in a Christmas cracker, other small screwdrivers and things like that.

I can still remember 11 years ago when i decided to go shopping on my normal bike for the first time in 14 years. I glided all the way down the hill to the town centre, thinking how brilliant bikes are as a means of transport. I filled up my hold-all with shopping, then started the 1/4 mile...

What are you going to do with it?

That's not that much. I've seen that sort of distance disappear, just by taking off the crank and putting it back on. That's really annoying when you have a PAS magnet disc. I've had to grind some off the back of the crank face several times on various bikes because of that. We'll see when we...

But they're not the correct size! One more time: YOU NEED 10 X 12MM!