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Had a fiddle with Swb #2 today :eek:, nothing major :). The lights weren't working but about an hours patient fiddling and all is well again, continuity wire checked all four wire runs and no issues. Must have been a bad brass eyelet contact on the rear where the guards have a filament element...

Use 4mm gold banana bullets as they have a rotating bezzle at the solder end or use an xt30.

48v 17a version will have 30% more torque then the 36v 15a one, pas 5 on hills is mighty. You will have about 800+w output from the controller and 650w at the wheel.

Phases are affected by fets going this means no power to spin the wheel.

My new batch of dc charge connetors have arrived so I can convert my other pair of bricks, so will try and remember to include some pics to go with the write up and match the number order of how to.

Mostly down to a size and pricing, industry has for the most part gone for 18650 for ev use so they are the most populous made cell. Like any cell you need do your home work, some of the larger cells have bad sag due to high IR or may not have the punch of the small cells.

1C with mine would be 8a but other wise no, bms is 5a max capable. I don't need fast charge so happy with 2- 2.3a rate. Full slow charge in approx. 3hrs 40m or 4hrs.

Bang on the money. What loading did you apply and how low soc ?

Just another thought Steve you would get 2.25v reading if you rotated the wheel too quickly as this is just the average reading of a hall. So might be worth checking again at a very slow speed.

My brother has one of these from about the same year now done over 16k, I know he did have a drive issue about 18months ago and found some pawls were sticking in the drive and bike still in use. He repaired it himself but probably not your issue. Read this thread by Bearing man don't know if...

Carefully cutting and keeping wires as short as poss allows for a neater finish, though bms needs gluing in place first. I place mine as near to the top as poss to still give the jst a bit of protection but leave a bit of a cut out of the shrink to allow hot air from bms to escape, leaving the...

30Q Yes ?

You can gently add some heat if things don't budge or try using a rubber mallet for gentle persuasion. Penetrating fluid may also help.

Ok maybe in cold winter but in summer it won't be able to cool down as they do get warm inside. The bms/ fets get very warm even hot when high amps are drawn often this isn't felt in a hard case but is very noticeable in soft packs.

Only admin can move or delete to combine it with thread in proper sub forum. Not being picky but if other users want to find or see high spec fast bikes they should be able to search in the correct sub forum.

As AWOL asked about lipo bms I used, I thought I would do a how to though it has been said and done before on here. 20a continuous output bms I used with switch wiring and balance function. Barring the switch bms is much the same as the 15a version so should handle a 50 - 60a peak/spike...

As I said to my brother, the battery may well take a beating as his cells are Sam 2200's but depends which ones. His Bosch s ped had 22P's inside which are 10a rated .

One thing about Nkon is they are very reliable and prompt with delivery. Cell V's seem low but that is how they leave the manufacturer for transportation. All the ones I have had have been at about 3.68 but voltage isn't really too important as long a they are all the same or with 0.01v.

There must be more out there somewhere Kirstin as John seems to remember all those years ago that Vita were selling them weekly it appears. #1 has frame/chassis #00261 #2 from John is #00281. Both cams via Vita and have the same ignition code.

Looks good to me, clean and crisp lines to it. My brother has an e6000 bike and it does fly well, though he has added a bdadass4 to it.