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Had mine for just over a year now and all been good. I do need to refresh a couple of pivot bearings and it would be an idea to do the headset ones while I am at it. Still really enjoying the bike and don’t feel the need to upgrade or look at anything else.

I don’t think it would take that long if you have a stand especially after you have done it a couple of times. I guess it comes down to how often you are going to ride. Enjoy the new bike when it arrives

You have to remove 4 screws to take off the plastic ‘bash’ guard, then drop the motor 4 bolts IIRC. You may get away with three & swinging the motor on the rearmost bolt. Unplug the battery, remove the two battery securing bolts on the down tube and the battery should slide out. Stock photo of...

Ignore the presenters comment about how the power comes in when he is riding the bike as he is using it in boost. The only time I use boost is in trials type steep climbs where you go from track stands to popping the front wheel over obsticals and you want instant full torque assist. All other...

It really does come down to how hard you push on the climbs and who you are riding with. If we go up with mates on regular bikes where you potter up the hills you could do two loops of the three main hills (Pikes Teeth, Transmission & Descend) without a problem. If the two of us on ebikes go...

Quite a harsh response for what was a legitimate question as to your choice of bike for your trip. The photos you have shown are a perfect example to me a FS is at least comparable at climbing to a hard tail particularly the first & third shot. I was not comparing the average rider to Nino...

That leads to the inevitable question of why you chose you FS bike over your hardtail for your trip up the Alps if a hardtail is so much better for climbing. The photos you have posted so far have trails that look reasonably smooth and well suited to a hardtail? And what does the best of the...

As far as ebikes are concerned, on technical climbs a full suspension bikes are much more capable as traction can be maintained where a hardtail bounces & looses grip. In short, you will ride where the hard tail XC boys push or carry.

The OP said he would not use his ebike on red & blacks on the grounds he would be worried about crashing an expensive e bike on themeven though he enjoys riding that kind of trail, he also said he was concerned he would regret not buying a full suspension bike later on. My reply was based on he...

If you like riding reds and blacks on a full squish then get a full suss ebike to ride on them. They can take a battering just the same if not better than a carbon analogue bike and are more than capable of dealing with the trails. Mine has taken a few tumbles without issue....

The 8 speed chainset will be SRAM EX1, it is their e-bike specific one. https://www.sram.com/sram/mountain/family/ex1#sm.0001kcyqj07dxd36syo19kt1j8j02 They do front sprockets down to 14t to go with it. Quite a pricey setup!

Best place to start is with what kind of riding do you do, XC, trail, endure, pottering around? How far do you tend to go and how high do you climb in a session. Another thing that affects things as far as range is rider weight if you do quite a bit of climbing. For any kind of trail riding...

Don't dismiss the Levo as it has just been updated with a new more powerful version of the Brose motor. Brose are also releasing a software update for the original ones that should take care of the early gremlins along with the cooling fix. There will probably be bargains to be had. The new...

No different to any other tyres. Trail tyres are easier than thicker walled gravity versions. The wider rims certainly make it easier than traditional ones as there is plenty of room for both of the beads in the central channel. Only tyres I have had trouble getting on in the past were Magic...

Mid drives make use of the mechanical advantage provided by the bikes gearing giving way more power at the wheel than the motor wattage suggests it is capable of which is why they are so suitable for eMTB's. I still get surprised at the trails you can ride up that are a struggle to walk up...

The Shimano trail mode doesn't (yet) allow the full power in that mode, it is reserved for boost. It does have an uncanny knack of sensing when and where you need some extra assistance. As said in posts above I am sure it is related to an algorithm based on cadence, wheel speed and torque...

It's not fixed to the percentage but will only go up to a that assistance level in each mode.

My rims are 40mm external I think 35mm internal width. You see folk running 2.35" on 35mm rims. I would think the Minion 2.5" WT would be about as narrow as I'd want to go.

Sounds similar to the Shimano E8000 trail mode. Varies assistance depending on the force applied by the rider. Makes for very natural feeling assistance without any delays. Little bar graph on the display lets you know how much assistance you are getting so you can vary your input to adjust...

I'll throw in a vote for tubeless. Use it for both standard & plus tyres, analogue & e bike. Pinch flats are history, thorns a none issue. To be honest though, improvements in puncture resistance are a secondary benefit compared to the improved grip & smoother ride of a lower pressure tubeless...