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I would have thought there would be more risk with them in series than parallel, why is it the opposite? I also just finished drawing a wiring diagram using a 4PDT relay which would automatically wire the batteries in series by default, and re wire them in parallel as soon as the charger is...

Thanks for the explanation. I just got an idea, could I wire my 3 batteries in such a way that a switch could change them from being in series (to power the bike) to being in parallel (to charge all 3 with a 12V charger?) so that I could charge all 3 with a 12 volt charger with the batteries...

What is VAT? I keep seeing that on UK stores, is that what they call the tax there? By the way I just got a 500mah charger for 12v batteries and am cahrging them individually now, but the charger says for 1-2 Ah batteries, mine at 7 Ah, will it cause a problem? Wouldn't it just take 7 times...

After all the nightmares with my bike, now it's the charger that's dead. It's a 36 volt lead acid battery charger. It started by making weird buzzing sounds and working only when held at a specific angle, and then just gave out completely. Is there any way I could find and replace the...

As I was saying on another thread I needed a new transistor and diode for my bike controller after breaking the pins on 2 of them, and then after one transistor jammed on. I just soldered a new of each on my controller and cautiously turned my bike's ignition key while holding the power wheel...

Thanks for letting me know how to identify the pins, I know which is which now but I can't access the link you posted for the pin outs of the IRF540, it says session timed out.

Is there a way to wire a mosfet with no or minimal additional components (no computer like in regular controllers, at least mine has a motorola 8 mhz cpu with a few KB ram and 32 KB storage space for the software that controls everything on the bike). Can I simply wire one like a relay? What...

As I've been saying my bike battery was literally dead, it barely lasted 1 km. I was going to spend $500 US on an nimh 12 Ah and charger but for several reasons decided not to and to get 7 Ah lead batteries for $57 instead (yes, that's $57 total, of $19 each for three 12 volt, 7 ah batteries)...

Controllers with pedal assist seem to be unexistant worldwide from what I could find. I found an IRF540, but how do I know if the pins are in different places than the original one? Thanks

Would the mosfet IRF540ZPBF also work? The onyl store I found that sells both parts has that mosfet.

Which companies sell e bikes with a 36 volt brushed motor and pedal assist? Could they sell me just a controller? Also, what does the battery have to do with anything? As I said many times my current lead battery has about 0.5 Ah left, it can barely do 1 km before dying and that's if I do...

You know what, maybe I'll throw all this junk away and get a $2500 bionx instead of a new car. The bionx seems to be the only option left. I really hadn't planned on spending $2500 but apparently it's the only way I could get an ebike. I'm obviosuly discouraged like you can't possibly...

Can anyone tell me why in the world bike controllers are not being made anymore? The only thing I find is the motherboards and I have to solder all the stuff and heatsinks and case and all that around the motherboard and that's how I broke them all. All I'd need is ONE pre built bike...

So should I just throw it out? I just bought it, this is like my 4th controller I buy and blow without ever being able to use it. I'm really getting sick of waisting so much money on controllers. I'm still using a mecanical relay as a "controller" for now. But I have only on/off ability and must...

What information would you need to be sure? I'd rather not buy another mosfet if it's gonna last 10 seconds like the others. I'd really like to know why this is happening. My battery is also extremely, extremely, severely damaged, it was a 12Ah but I think there's about 500 ma left, it barely...

By the way, the replacement T1 I used is labeled: NEC K3435B 6XKS This is the one that lasted about 10 seconds before the circuit stuck on "always on". The model number seems almost identical. Will a new one cause the same result? What could be causing it to get stuck on? Thanks

Thanks for the replies. Yes it is the same bike. Would any of those 2 parts failing cause the problem I mentioned (motor goes to 100% power as soon as the key is turned, the board also works properly for about 5-10 seconds after putting a new of those 2 components and then reverts to always...

OK I changed it with a similar one from another board and amazinlgy it worked for a short while, then it got stuck in "always on" and my only way to stop the motor was by turning the key. What could have caused this? Is it because it wasn't exactly the right transistor? That's why I want to know...

To those who know electronics well, I need to buy 2 transistors but have no idea which I need. There are 2 transistors on my bike's controller which on the board are labeled T1 and D1 and the pins accidentaly broke off while mounting a heatsink, from a google search it seems T1 and D1 refers...

Since I doubt I'll ever get the pedal assist back on my bike, I need to start looking for new models or possibly even better bike upgrade kits so I can choose my own bike. Is there any kit to build your own ebike with a pedal sensor other than the $2000 bionx kit? Otherwise what pre built...