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Thanks all. I've tried cleaning the connections with a bit of vinegar and with wd40. It's still not working. I've also bought a new throttle and that doesn't work either. Totally stumped at this point. It was fully working, then completely stopped. I would think a connection issue would be...

Thanks, will do.

Hi there. I'm having this same issue. I just bought a new KT LCD5 to replace my old one. The old one was still working on my conversion kit, but the display was damaged. I was able to unlock full speed on the old one. For some reason, I have changed the maximum speed but it's still clearly...

Thanks. Any idea how I could get rid of that?

Thanks. I've tried P1 at different values, including 50 and 100. It doesn't seem to change anything. Again, I can't see that any of this would explain the throttle not working whatsoever.

Thank you, appreciated. That's all useful, but I don't think addresses my central problems, i.e. why I can't unlock full speed and why the throttle might have stopped working. Any ideas on that would be very welcome.

The connections seem fine to the eye. See attached. Settings are: P1 200 P2 1 P3 1 P4 0 P5 01 C1 01 C2 0 C3 8 C4 2 C5 10 C6 3 C7 0 C8 0 C9 0 C10 N C11 0 C12 4 C13 0 C14 2 C15 6 Top speed is 72. The old display is broken so I can't see what was working there unfortunately, even though it...

Update: I have identified the issue stopping the PAS working, it was a faulty brake sensor. So I just need to work out my the throttle isn't working. Also, I can't access full speed on the new LCD even though it is a KTLCD5 like the previous unit. I have changed the top speed in settings...

Sorry, I'm probably confusing things with the word controller. I didn't replace the controller, I replaced the LCD. I set up all the settings on the new one. The PAS didn't work on the new one, the throttle did. I put the old display back on to check the PAS was working. It was. The throttle...

Yes, I know. I did. That doesn't explain either of the issues, or why the throttle would stop working on the old controller. PAS shouldn't need turning on.

I have been running a KT LCD5 controller on my 48v rear hub motor without problem. I replaced the KT LCD as the previous one's display was partially broken, although still working fine. However, although it's exactly the same controller, the throttle seems to have broken in the process of...

Yes, I definitely need to think about condensation. I think I may add some insulation to the inside of the Asgard and have some kind of heater/insulation in the Bat Safe box as well.

True. I was thinking I'd towel it down if it's wet first. The Asgards do have some ventilation to minimise condensation. A frostguard heater is a good suggestion, thanks.

I'm looking into installing an Asgard ebike metal shed outside my home for my ebike, and running power to it (it comes with built in plates for this). I'm aware the advice is generally to store the battery inside, but I'm looking into if there's a good way to store it outside. I'd much prefer...

Hi there, I'm considering a conversion on an old Peugeot Carbolite 103 frame. Someone on another forum says: 'A 1982 Peugeot catalog had a vague description of Carbolite 103, calling it "a special, thin-walled tubing made from a composition in carbon steel unique to Peugeot. This tubing...

Thanks very much, yes that all makes sense!

Hi there, I'm pretty new to e-bikes and batteries. I've recently built a steel frame road bike commuter conversion (rear hub). It's working nicely, but my battery seemed to run down alarmingly quickly today and I'm trying to work out if it's normal or not. These are the specs: A 48V 15Ah /...

Thanks. I'm thinking of replacing the dropouts or getting a weld refill and fitting two Grin torque arms.

I'm working on an e bike conversion from my steel road bike, 1000w 48v rear hub. I sent it to the e bike workshop for tuning and they have inspected the filing I did on the rear drop out to fit the new axle. Sadly, the mechanic thinks it's suspect, not terrible, but not great, based on the fact...