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SOLVED... damaged wiring to hallsensors in motor caused by speed-magnet .... magnet disassembled , put some glue on cables as isolation and it works. But PAS is not working with new controller, colors matches on connectors (black, red,blue) , LCD is programmed to combined mode (pedal+motor...

problem.. wheel is spinning nicely when is under load.. small human can run it with little bit suffering on 1 gear, but regular human has problem to take off from place... motor is whining... so running motor without halls is not usable under normal usage :/ i made an measurement of hall...

yep I understand your high assumption to connector/wiring/to hall sensors. Make sense also for me but....hm... No i cant push stronger male and female against, this vertical line is plastic stopper which doesnt allow you to move it further...

controller arrived, swapped, and it runs only in no-hall mode.. with connected hall sensors it make 1/4 of turn as previous controller (new 9pin waterproof bullet connector from controller due to another connectors on new controller). Not tested on real road due to not accurancy with mounting...

will do later, I order from aliex another controller which has self learning wire (can drive motor without hall sensors) and will see...

Good hint for another users: You can distinguish between drive fault and accelerator leverage if you put bike into Parking mode (it runs 6kmh independently according accelerator)... for me same problem as my interaction with accelerator I did measurement onto wheel - hall sensor, every of three...

is red led signalizing something wrong? https://youtube.com/shorts/yMi8ZRjB_ug?si=LO0J0MzxnPwnx2Ps

ok thanks but it is according picture... so now we need to solve if this issue is controller - burned mosfets?, because I have same increasing impedance between Phase and + , starting from 7kOhm to xyz kOhm ? - wrong Hall sensor - after startup of rotation controller dont get proper signals...

thanks you for your patience but yes connector is very tight ... fault starts to appear slowly... 100% driving, then 70% (interruptions during drive), then 5% (4 seconds drive) and now only 1/4 of turn of wheel..

yes it is strongly connected male and female .. dont think so that here is problem, .. controller doesnt have self learn wire.. but you consider resistance between plus and phase wires that is ok? because on the internet it should be infinity, or some tens of megaOhms... but if I measure it it...

Ok you talk about 9pin connector, yes it is pushed to the limit. But problems occured from full drive with interruptions, then 4s drive and now only 1/4 of turn...Probably nobody play sith comnectors or display settings

Dont understand what you want to hear. I disconnect connector from motor in order to do measurements and put back arrow against them. Inlet into motor is according me as it should be..no visible damage

P15 is around 40v (undervoltage protection of battery). Inlet to motor is not right angle but it is ok if I saw on the videos..when it starts to emerge from hub it tends to be bent until is tight to frame with zip tie..no visible damage

p14 is overcurrent and default no is 12A, max can be set in LCD is 20A but controller is built for 15A. E07 showed previously for few seconds when it was able to run for few seconds...

no lcd is still running...battery has 53.6V so it is ok..

minus versus phase wire has all three 12kohm, plus versus all phases wires has incresing impedancy starting at 8kOhm and incresing until nowhere note: cable to motor is rounded cca 10pin, i consider as phase wires three most thick pins

just kick,... . before only kick that was short run maybe for 4seconds... I want to emphasize that month ago speed was unlocked from 25 to 32kmh...should this destroy something? (mosfet)?

battery is 48V, also on the display is set 48

I forgot to say that battery charger's LED turns from red to green - indicates that it is fully charged. Also button on the battery after pressing and holding turns all 4 leds shinning. Cant have now measurement tool. But I sent her to check voltage battery parameter and it is proper one - 48V...

Hi, my nephew bought a 20" Avaka BZ20 which has probably Bafang 250W (peak 500W) , 15Ah battery and it ran about 200km. Last miles it tended to stop during driving. Later on just few meters I was able to drive it, and latest status is that after accelerator pressing only maybe 1/4 of turn of...