Ebike died after 200km - battery or motor failure?

[szolo]

Hi,
my nephew bought a 20" Avaka BZ20 which has probably Bafang 250W (peak 500W) , 15Ah battery and it ran about 200km.
Last miles it tended to stop during driving. Later on just few meters I was able to drive it, and latest status is that after accelerator pressing only maybe 1/4 of turn of wheel is performed. Cant do any movement.
Observations: I noticed overvoltlage protection Error 07 on display for a while - not persistent,
Battery drops from 2/5 pieces to zero after doing nothing with it for 2 hours.
Battery was charged again to full, put back and display is shown EMPTY battery.
Motor is doing still only 1/4 of turn.
Description on the internet is that it has 48V battery. I have also tried set P14 (

overcurrent protection) from default 12A to 14A but cant help.
What is wrong? Thanks a lot

 

[Az.]

Can you check battery voltage?

 

[saneagle]

Hi,
my nephew bought a 20" Avaka BZ20 which has probably Bafang 250W (peak 500W) , 15Ah battery and it ran about 200km.
Last miles it tended to stop during driving. Later on just few meters I was able to drive it, and latest status is that after accelerator pressing only maybe 1/4 of turn of wheel is performed. Cant do any movement.
Observations: I noticed overvoltlage protection Error 07 on display for a while - not persistent,
Battery drops from 2/5 pieces to zero after doing nothing with it for 2 hours.
Battery was charged again to full, put back and display is shown EMPTY battery.
Motor is doing still only 1/4 of turn.
Description on the internet is that it has 48V battery. I have also tried set P14 (

overcurrent protection) from default 12A to 14A but cant help.
What is wrong? Thanks a lot

That happens when you have the wrong voltage set in the LCD, check that it's not set to 48v instead of 36v.

 

[szolo]

I forgot to say that battery charger's LED turns from red to green - indicates that it is fully charged.
Also button on the battery after pressing and holding turns all 4 leds shinning.
Cant have now measurement tool.
But I sent her to check voltage battery parameter and it is proper one - 48V.
Also indicator of battery is shown fully charged at LCD....what was not prior writing this thread.
1/4 turn + shutdown of motor is still present.
I read also self learning wire for BLDC motor, but it needs uncover and not sure if there is classical controller when will be available 2 wires to perform selflearning procedure...). Could be unsynced phase problem?
(it has 2 months, temperatures now are -3°C up to 3°C and bike is outside maximum for 3hours,,,)

 

[Benjahmin]

You need to measure the fully charged voltage of your battery. If it is around 42v then it is a 36v battery and the display setting needs to be changed.

 

[saneagle]

I forgot to say that battery charger's LED turns from red to green - indicates that it is fully charged.
Also button on the battery after pressing and holding turns all 4 leds shinning.
Cant have now measurement tool.
But I sent her to check voltage battery parameter and it is proper one - 48V.
Also indicator of battery is shown fully charged at LCD....what was not prior writing this thread.
1/4 turn + shutdown of motor is still present.
I read also self learning wire for BLDC motor, but it needs uncover and not sure if there is classical controller when will be available 2 wires to perform selflearning procedure...). Could be unsynced phase problem?
(it has 2 months, temperatures now are -3°C up to 3°C and bike is outside maximum for 3hours,,,)

The supplied battery should be 498v, so check your LCD isn't set to 36v. If it were, you'd see the over-voltage warning.

 

[Nealh]

498V , I think we would all like a battery with that power d8ve .

 

[szolo]

battery is 48V, also on the display is set 48

 

[saneagle]

Does the motor actually run for a short time or does it just kick. If it just kicks, you've probably blown one or more MOSFETs in the controller that are now a dead short, which would drain the battery whenever the controller is switched on. Do a forum search for MOSFET test. There are loads of posts on how to do it. It's a very simple test.

 

[szolo]

just kick,... . before only kick that was short run maybe for 4seconds...
I want to emphasize that month ago speed was unlocked from 25 to 32kmh...should this destroy something? (mosfet)?

 

[saneagle]

just kick,... . before only kick that was short run maybe for 4seconds...
I want to emphasize that month ago speed was unlocked from 25 to 32kmh...should this destroy something? (mosfet)?

Unlocking speed gives the bike an easier time, so don't worry about that. All the problems come when riding too slow.

Before anything else, check that your motor connector is pushed in all the way to the MARKED LINE, not just in tight. After that, check that the motor cable isn't damaged, especially where it comes out of the axle.

 

[szolo]

minus versus phase wire has all three 12kohm, plus versus all phases wires has incresing impedancy starting at 8kOhm and incresing until nowhere
note: cable to motor is rounded cca 10pin, i consider as phase wires three most thick pins

 

[saneagle]

minus versus phase wire has all three 12kohm, plus versus all phases wires has incresing impedancy starting at 8kOhm and incresing until nowhere
note: cable to motor is rounded cca 10pin, i consider as phase wires three most thick pins

Looks like the MOSFETs are all OK. It's turning into a bit of a mystery. After the motor kicks, does the LCD switch off?

 

[szolo]

no lcd is still running...battery has 53.6V so it is ok..

 

[saneagle]

no lcd is still running...battery has 53.6V so it is ok..

To me, it looks like the controller is trying to run the motor, but detecting a fault as soon as the motor turns. Check P07 in the LCD. It should be set to 1 unless the speed shows too low in which case it should be 6, There's a fair chance that it's set to something higher.

Also, check that P14 is set to around 40v.

 

[szolo]

p14 is overcurrent and default no is 12A, max can be set in LCD is 20A but controller is built for 15A.
E07 showed previously for few seconds when it was able to run for few seconds...

 

[saneagle]

p14 is overcurrent and default no is 12A, max can be set in LCD is 20A but controller is built for 15A.
E07 showed previously for few seconds when it was able to run for few seconds...

Sorry, I meant P15.

You didn't confirm that you checked the motor cable was in properly, which causes E07.

 

[szolo]

P15 is around 40v (undervoltage protection of battery).
Inlet to motor is not right angle but it is ok if I saw on the videos..when it starts to emerge from hub it tends to be bent until is tight to frame with zip tie..no visible damage

 

[saneagle]

P15 is around 40v (undervoltage protection of battery).
Inlet to motor is not right angle but it is ok if I saw on the videos..when it starts to emerge from hub it tends to be bent until is tight to frame with zip tie..no visible damage

You didn't confirm that you checked the motor cable was in properly. It's either to the line or not. Which is it?

 

[szolo]

Dont understand what you want to hear. I disconnect connector from motor in order to do measurements and put back arrow against them.
Inlet into motor is according me as it should be..no visible damage