Any Motor hall sensor experts out there?- I'm stumped!

jabmesen

Finding my (electric) wheels
May 28, 2020
12
0
Hello everyone- I’ll try and be brief! I bought two bikes, only a month old on ebay; so secondhand.

My bike is a samebike g-two- cheap but great fun to use. Also I have an identical one from ‘Dohiker’, the only reason I mention this is because it has helped to compare with the testing of the broken bike. The story so far, about a month ago I had a message on the display ‘E07’ which means a motor issue.

I took the motor apart and found there was a little bit of water in the motor chamber. I tested the hall sensors and found that middle sensor ( which is white as opposed to the two outer ones that are black) was giving an erroneous reading – it was constantly reading about 2.75v while switched on and manually turning the motor. The other two are fluctuating between 0v and about 4.9v as the motor is turned. As you will see from the photo all sensors are adjacent to red magnet at the same time, and red at the same time.

I was able to test the working bike without stripping to the motor; I found two hall sensors are generally 4.9v while the one is 0v , and as the one rises to 4.9v the other two drop to 0v.

After some help from this forum, I replaced the white hall sensor with a ss41 .( Electric Effect Hall Sensor Linear Bipolor) - this didn’t work.

After more help, I replaced it with a ss441a. (HONEYWELL S&C SS441A SENSOR, HALL EFFECT, 70G, UNIPOLAR) the idea being, that this would give the opposite voltage to the others.

I have tried contacting samebike- though my suspicion is they only badge the bikes, and a third party factory manufacture them, and gearbest, who sell many of the samebike range. All I want to know is what is the type of hall sensor so I can replace it. But all of the companies want an order number which I have not got - I have tried to contact the seller for this information , but he hasn’t replied to me. I think it’s only responsible for them to help otherwise there’s another 20kg of scap metal.

So that’s all I need help on really- what is the model of this hall sensor, or what can I try next. The motor has this code printed on it: sw-py 36v14"250d. I can’t find a replacement motor either; though I am confident the right hall sensor would fix it. Any advice would be so welcome, thanks in advance.
 

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vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
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3,986
Basildon
All three hall sensors should be the same. The white colour is probably just to remind the assembly line personnel that it has to go the other way round. Which way round the middle hall sensor goes depends on the windings phase angle - 60 deg vs 120 deg.

Sometimes you need a pull-up or pull down resistor on the signal leg to get them to switch. Sometimes the resistors are in the controller, so the switching only works correctly when the halls are connected to and powered by the controller. All three should behave the same, so if two are switching correctly, so should the third.

Some hall sensors have the pull-up resistor inside and integrated into the sensor, others don't. If you don't know what type you have, you can always add one. Having two doesn't affect the function, but having none usually does.

Some controllers have automatic phase angle detection, so can work with both 60 deg or 120 deg, but others can't.
 

jabmesen

Finding my (electric) wheels
May 28, 2020
12
0
Thanks for taking the time vfr400 to explain that to me, I really appreciate your input on this; I have included a photo of the motor: Is there an obvious way to find out if this is a 60deg phase or a120deg phase?

If you look at the printed circuit board you can see that the signal leg should be on the left and all –ve’s in the middle and all +ve’s on the right ( I have checked this with a resistance test on multimeter too). I’m thinking maybe the white sensor had a pull- up resistor integrated on the signal leg? If so, could I add a resistor to the signal leg of replacement somehow- what spec resistor do I need?

I have also taken the controller off the working bike and plugged it into the broken bike and I get the same error code and issue- so I think the controller is good too and if there are pull resistors in there they should be good!? All the tests I ran were with power to the motor

It’s probably also worth mentioning that while I was testing the motor another hall broke so at the moment I have one original on the left of the pcb, the ss441a in the middle at the moment and a new ss41 on the right.

What do you think my next move should be-so much appreciation for your time.
 

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