Bigstone E200 LED display loses power

[vfr400]

Any controller should work. Most people go for the Brainpower controller plus S66 LCD at around £40 or the nicer KT 15 amp Sinewave controller with LCD3 from Topbikekit or Elifebike at around £70. Whichever you get, it's probably best to get a new throttle, 8 or 10 pole PAS and speed sensor, just for the sake of compatibility.

Do you have a connector on the motor cable near the controller. if not, you'll need to get a motor extension cable too.

 

[Shannow]

Thanks for all your help, it's been very useful and informative.

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This looks like a direct replacement for mine, so I'm tempted to get the whole set from there, this gives me a tidier solution that will bolt straight on and a spare battery with a new controller. I'll also email them and see if I can buy the case without the battery.

In fact there it is there

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[Shannow]

So having looked at the Topbikekit site, I'm thinking the following:

• Brake: With Normal Brake
• Charger: M120-36V2.5A
• Display: T-LCD3
• Cable: 1-4 Cable
• Controller: with 36V inner controller
• 9Pins: 1.9 meter 9pins extend cable
• Throttle: Wuxing 130X Thumb throttle
• PAS: KT-V12L

That way I'm covering all my bases. As it's all a dropdown selection with the battery pack, I am assuming it will all work together, keep the bike looking tidy and i should only have to order once, given the quite large delivery prices.

The connector to the motor is near the controller currently, the existing one is 60cm, so it should be like for like.

The throttle will be new, but I think it's a worthwhile addition.

 

[Shannow]

The kit arrived at the start of the week, as I decided to treat myself to an upgraded battery as well, a 12.8Ah as an improvement over my current 10.4Ah. I figured if i wanted at any point to upgrade the battery and given the eye watering shipping costs, i'd get it all done at once.

The kit all fitted correctly and the LCD-3 is a big improvement over the original LED display, however i immediately encountered issues with trying to run the motor, it just made a horrible noise and failed to spin more than a few times very slowly.

I've spent most of the week learning about P1 and P2 settings along with all the other options the KT-LCD3 provides, but nothing improved the motor performance.

I started investigating other possibilities, such as a failed controller, however my little testing unit suggested everything was OK, to my untrained eye, lights were flashing when I did things with the throttle and walk function.

In the end I chanced across an excellent diagnostic diagram "Hall Sensor to Phase Wiring Configuration" which seemed to suggest the problem could be my phase wiring. I used my break out cables to test the suggested combinations of Phase wiring and it does indeed appear that my Green and Yellow phase wires are swapped. If i connect blue to blue, yellow to green and green to yellow the motor flies along like it used to.

So this leaves me with a connection issue. I'm loath to cut wires if i can avoid it so what i really want is about 20cm of 9pin male to female with the yellow and green swapped at one end to get this working.

Does anyone make bespoke cables?

 

[vfr400]

I often shorten motor cables, which means cutting and joining all the wires. It's no problem. The only other option is to make an adapter cable, which will still require cables to be cut and joined, out of one of these:

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[Shannow]

That's a pretty reasonable price, I shall do that.

I appreciate all your help during my issue, VFR400. Many thanks.

 

[vfr400]

Make sure that you set P3=1 to have the best riding experience with this controller.

We'll all be happy when you're happy.

 

[Shannow]

I've actually managed to go out on the bike this weekend and there is still something not quite right, but i believe it is in the settings of KT-LCD3.

The bike itself flies along quite nicely and that is part of the problem. The motor doesn't appear to be cutting out at 25km/h and i believe this is causing more power drain from the battery than normal.

For example, this morning I went out for a reasonable 11 mile ride, which is quite hilly. The battery was fully charged and on the bike showed 41.6v. After the ride it was down to 36.6v, the display was showing 1 bar although the battery itself showed 3 bars. To my mind, that's about 50% and therefore the range of the bike is about 22 miles. This is on a new 12.8Ah 36V battery.

On my old setup, with a 10.4Ah 36v battery I was doing 25 miles and still have 2 bars left on the battery itself, so an expected range of maybe 30 to 35 miles.

I appreciate this may simply be my interpretation as I never previously took actual voltage readings.

The settings I currently have are:

Motor Cutout: 25km/h
Wheel : 700c (although actually a 27.5" wheel but no setting for that)

P1 170
P2 1
P3 1
P4 0
P5 15
C1 5
C2 0
C3 8
C4 3
C5 10
C6 3
C7 0
C8 0
C9 0
C10 n
C11 0
C12 4
C13 0
C14 1


P1 I'm still playing with, but it seems to be pretty close speed wise to the GPS reading.

The Power Assist settings appear to be wrong. At level 5 i get great assist, it shows 500w of assist, but P4 is cutting out at only 250w and below that it is negligible such that level 1 is about 20w. Is there a more linear setting so that level 1 is 20%, 2 is 40%, 3 is 60%, 4 is 80% 5 is 100%? At present it seems 4 is 50% and 5 is 100% so it's a big step up.

Secondly, why am i still getting assist about 15mph? I think this is contributing to the power drain as the motor is always 'on' even when I'm pedalling at 19 or 20 mph, i'd expect to be under my own steam at that point.

Don't get me wrong, it works great. But too great.

Any pointers?

Many thanks.

 

[Nealh]

The PAS /watts output you see if correct, PAS 5 100%, PAS 4 50%, PAS 3 33%, PAS2 20% & PAS 1 13%. The levels are set hard in the firmware so no adjustment is possible, I expect if one looks on ES there will be a thread regarding open source programming of the controller.

The only way you will get good range is using predominantly PAS 1 & 2 only saving the upper ones for inclines. I see about 80/100w in PAS 1 with my 20a controllers.
Over the cut off I don't know why but there is residual constant current drain, I typically see 10w or so.

 

[Shannow]

That's good to know, at least that's correct then, I'll have to adjust my riding style. Thanks Nealh.

The wattage is still reading at 500w on assist 5 when pedalling over 16mph on both LCD and GPS, if i stop pedalling the watts falls back to 0. It may be i just need to get used to the new controller and LCD and how they operate, sticking to lower PAS settings until i need it.

 

[vfr400]

The motor either cuts out at 25 km'h or it doesn't. It should be easy to tell because your LCD shows the power. All you have to do is pedal at say 28km/h and observe the power on the meter. If it says zero or thereabouts, it has cut.

What PAS level were you using to do your ride? If it was showing 20W and you were on level 1, a 12.8 36v battery would go for at least 23 hours. At 10 mph, that would be 230 miles. On level 5 at 500w, it would go for 0.9 hours. At an average of 18 mph, that would be 16.5 miles.

 

[Nealh]

The wattage is still reading at 500w on assist 5 when pedalling over 16mph on both LCD and GPS, if i stop pedalling the watts falls back to 0. It may be i just need to get used to the new controller and LCD and how they operate, sticking to lower PAS settings until i need it.

So the cut out is set higher then 16 mph either the cut out speed isn't set or the P1 is out, for P1 set it lower till you find the motor cut out of 25kmh.