I have an old izip cb26. It worked ok 2 weeks ago. Got i out today. Battery fully chargedd, switched it on and all of a sudden you can hear clicking from within the controller. The throttle seems to have a weird very loose clicking sound coming from within so i suspect it could be the controller. Motor works fine, dash lights come on but all that happenes is that it clicks. What could the problem be ? If its the throttle could i purchase a standard 3 wire throttle and wire it ? Many thanks.
cb26 controller clicking.
- Thread starter cb26bike
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Many thanks for the reply. Its an old bike and does not have pedal assist. Now iv opened the door for the controller and took off the brake cable connector. Nothing but clicking. Checked the battery and reads 24v which is ok, charges fine. But cant pin point the problem.
The throttle consists of an orange and white wire leading to the dash lights. And a red, black and blue wire leading into the sensor comprised of a few magnets. Is there anyway to hardwire the throttle to power. Im ok with no lights or a throttle and would settle for a switch to turn it on and off.
Many thanks.
It has a short chain with a motor mounted outside of the wheel. There is no motor in the center of the wheel.
OK, so it's the brushed motor on the bracket. It could be that your motor is burnt out. With the wheel off the ground, connect a car battery charger to the two motor wires. It should spin happily. If you only get sparks and no motion, you need a new motor. Don't leave the charger connected if the motor doesn't turn.
If the motor does turn, then something must be wrong with the motor controller or its connections.
If the motor does turn, then something must be wrong with the motor controller or its connections.
I can't see any way the throttle can do that.
Are you OK with dismantling/repairing electronics?
Your problem is most likely in the motor controller, but could be the battery. Have you got a meter to measure the actual battery voltage? Which battery do you have? Is it lithium or SLA?
Hi there,
Oh ok, throttle cant be an issue then ? iv read somewhere that theres a magnet sensor which controls the flow to the motor. A throttle thats not working may send a higher signal but the controller will step in to ensure that the motor will not work above the limited output.
Im fine with opening the electrics, have opened the throttle but cant see anything amiss.
Iv checked the voltage output and it reads a constant 24v. I also have determined that the batteries are of lead-acid batteries type.
I think that it's fairly likely that the batteries are shagged. Good batteries would be around 26V. Does the controller still click when you try it with the back wheel off the ground. Also, try it like that with the charger connected.
Hi,
it could very wel be the battery as its the only other things i havnt tried (no battery available), but considering i checked the battery a few times when it was working and more or less had the same output reading. Iv tried it off the ground but cannot try it with the charger connected as the charger plug or the plug to controller (kettle lead type) can only go in one at a time. Any other advice is much appreciated. Thanks.
When SLAs are shagged, they read about 12v each (24v for two), but as soon as you try to draw current, the voltage collapses. As I said, if they're healthy, they should hold 26v or more after charging.
The only way to know for sure that the batteries are shagged is to do a load test, or you could measure the voltage when they're operating on your bike to see if the voltage goes down when you use the throttle, though that could also happen if your controller were faulty.
You can test your bike with any supply that can give between 20v and 30v at at least 1 amp, which is what you need with the wheel in the air. 2 amps would be better. You'll need about 20 amps to ride the bike.
The only way to know for sure that the batteries are shagged is to do a load test, or you could measure the voltage when they're operating on your bike to see if the voltage goes down when you use the throttle, though that could also happen if your controller were faulty.
You can test your bike with any supply that can give between 20v and 30v at at least 1 amp, which is what you need with the wheel in the air. 2 amps would be better. You'll need about 20 amps to ride the bike.