Chain slip

JohnnyGM7LSI

Pedelecer
Dec 5, 2016
128
36
71
Elgin Moray
Anybody got any suggestions to fix chain slip I`m getting. I fitted a new chain today and am now getting chain slip, worse when I`m on the big ring at the front and the smallest cog on the rear cassette, I`m even getting it without putting a lot of power on. History is, new chain, chainset and cassette in april last year and mileage about 1200 miles, all well lubricated, I checked the chain this week and it was almost dropping in at .75%, so decided to fit a new chain this morning before a run and during the run I was getting the chain slip, here's a photo of the new chain after the run. https://goo.gl/photos/7nCboKMZDhHAXFXi7
 

Fordulike

Esteemed Pedelecer
Feb 26, 2010
3,802
1,537
Might be worth taking a link or two out of the chain to get better tension. Failing that, then a new cassette, as it's usually a good idea to replace the two together.
 

JohnnyGM7LSI

Pedelecer
Dec 5, 2016
128
36
71
Elgin Moray
Might be worth taking a link or two out of the chain to get better tension. Failing that, then a new cassette, as it's usually a good idea to replace the two together.
Thanks for that, I`ve always gotten a few chains out of a cassette, and there's no obvious wear on the cassette, I wondered if the chain was too long, that's why I posted a photo of it.
 

Fordulike

Esteemed Pedelecer
Feb 26, 2010
3,802
1,537
On my single chainring and largest cog on the cassette, the chain is almost straight through the derailleur arm. The two small pulleys are still firmly contacting the chain though, with a little play, so the arm can still do its job.

A picture paints a thousand words, so I'll post a piccy tomorrow to show you what I mean.
 

JohnnyGM7LSI

Pedelecer
Dec 5, 2016
128
36
71
Elgin Moray
On my single chainring and largest cog on the cassette, the chain is almost straight through the derailleur arm. The two small pulleys are still firmly contacting the chain though, with a little play, so the arm can still do its job.

A picture paints a thousand words, so I'll post a piccy tomorrow to show you what I mean.
Thanks for that, hopefully it is the cassette that's worn, as its still under warranty at 9 months use, as Sram give a 2 year warranty on it, but I`ll see what angle your derailleur is at first, I`ve always just made the new chain length the same as the original one.
 

jwm

Pedelecer
Feb 11, 2014
139
41
Hampshire
The chain does look a little long - have a quick look on YouTube for some guides.

Is the quick link one of the Clarks' ones? I stopped using them (or any curved one) as I seemed to have the same problem, which was cured with a KMC quick link...plus they are a lot easier to get off when you want to clean the chain.

John
 

Fordulike

Esteemed Pedelecer
Feb 26, 2010
3,802
1,537
Rear Derailleur.jpg
Single chainring, largest cog on cassette. Note that the chain still has a small bend in it, otherwise you may have problems selecting the large cog.

All works great, no chain slip and no derailment issues.
 

JohnnyGM7LSI

Pedelecer
Dec 5, 2016
128
36
71
Elgin Moray
The chain does look a little long - have a quick look on YouTube for some guides.

Is the quick link one of the Clarks' ones? I stopped using them (or any curved one) as I seemed to have the same problem, which was cured with a KMC quick link...plus they are a lot easier to get off when you want to clean the chain.

John
Thanks John, yes it is a Clarks one, I`ll give the KMC ones a shot, I swapped to the Clarks ones as I found the Sram Quick-link that came with the chain was a sod to undo if you wanted to remove the chain afterwards.
 

Fordulike

Esteemed Pedelecer
Feb 26, 2010
3,802
1,537
+1 for KMC chains. Especially the ones with the EcoProteQ rust protection coating.

What speed is your cassette Johnny?
 
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anotherkiwi

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jan 26, 2015
7,845
5,785
The European Union
Wippermann Connex for me, less than 10€, stay away from the budget KMC chains (the brown ones) they don't wear well.
 
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Deleted member 4366

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Don't touch the chain yet. Your derailleur isn't poperly adjusted re the position of the jockey wheel. Also, the end-stop is probably out of adjustment too. Look at the various Youtube videos or search through previous threads on how to do it.
 

JohnnyGM7LSI

Pedelecer
Dec 5, 2016
128
36
71
Elgin Moray
All sorted now, slip gone, went to halfords with the wheel, guy said he would need to check it on bike before he could replace it, so wheel on and back to halfords, he checked all the derailleur alignment etc which was spot on, and also confirmed that the small ring on the cassette was gassed, he went to see the manager who said its not covered as it is normal wear and tear, 1200 miles from a cassette, so new cassette it was, so back home fitted, and out for a run, all running fine now. I took in the old chain that came off for him to check it and it was scraping the link as it was dropped in on the .75% side, and wouldn't go in on the 1% side. He said to put the old chain back on and run it till it gives up and replace the chain and cassette, or run it as it is and don`t use the smallest ring. I said to him that it`s recommended you replace the chain before the cassette gives up, he said yes that's correct, but when you replace the chain, its then not a good match for the cassette as the cassette is worn, better to run it and replace the whole train when it gets really bad. So, he wanted £22.99 for a cassette, I said it was £14.49 online from halfords so he price matched it. Thanks for all the suggestions and replies.
 

Alan Quay

Esteemed Pedelecer
Dec 4, 2012
2,351
1,076
Devon
All sorted now, slip gone, went to halfords with the wheel, guy said he would need to check it on bike before he could replace it, so wheel on and back to halfords, he checked all the derailleur alignment etc which was spot on, and also confirmed that the small ring on the cassette was gassed, he went to see the manager who said its not covered as it is normal wear and tear, 1200 miles from a cassette, so new cassette it was, so back home fitted, and out for a run, all running fine now. I took in the old chain that came off for him to check it and it was scraping the link as it was dropped in on the .75% side, and wouldn't go in on the 1% side. He said to put the old chain back on and run it till it gives up and replace the chain and cassette, or run it as it is and don`t use the smallest ring. I said to him that it`s recommended you replace the chain before the cassette gives up, he said yes that's correct, but when you replace the chain, its then not a good match for the cassette as the cassette is worn, better to run it and replace the whole train when it gets really bad. So, he wanted £22.99 for a cassette, I said it was £14.49 online from halfords so he price matched it. Thanks for all the suggestions and replies.
Sorry, a bit late to this thread. When I ran a fairly high speed motor on my bike I found the I spent most of my time on the smallest/second smallest sprocket. Since these have only 11/14 teeth they wear a lot quicker than the bigger ones, go around many more times and slip more readily.

I could wear them out in 700 miles or so.

I did however find a guy selling just these cogs on eBay (which I'm sure you know are separate on most cassettes).

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk
 

JohnnyGM7LSI

Pedelecer
Dec 5, 2016
128
36
71
Elgin Moray
Sorry, a bit late to this thread. When I ran a fairly high speed motor on my bike I found the I spent most of my time on the smallest/second smallest sprocket. Since these have only 11/14 teeth they wear a lot quicker than the bigger ones, go around many more times and slip more readily.

I could wear them out in 700 miles or so.

I did however find a guy selling just these cogs on eBay (which I'm sure you know are separate on most cassettes).

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk
Hi Alan, Same here, since the E conversion I mostly use the smallest and the next one up. Just what I was thinking when I was fitting the new cassette, surely someone sells these separately, but I haven't found any yet, post a link if you come across them again, Cheers.
 

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