E-Bike Upgrade

[campbell1987]

Ok so i think im going to give up trying to fix this controller, When i use the negative terminal ot the battery as GND and test all 3 wires going to motor i get 48v on all 3. shouldn't the wheel be spinning? Or am i using the wrong ground point? I have upped it from a 36v setup to a 48v now so am i right in thinking if i got a new controller rated for a 48v system then the low voltage cut off will protect battery cells for longer or would this be too powerfull for current hub motor and possibly damage it?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Your controller gives three phase AC voltage between each pair of phase wires, so your meaeuring method is meaningless.

It's normal to see scorching around the big resisistor because it runs very hot. If you over-volt your controller, it runs even hotter, so it's a good idea to replace it with one of higher value.

When a controller doesn't seem to give power, you have to measure things, not take wild guesses at what might be wrong. The first thing is to connect everything up and switch it on. While it's like that, meaeure the battery voltage at the battery connector or anywhere else in the controller, where you can get a probe to it. Next, you measre the voltage between the throttle or PAS red and black wires.

Post the results of those two tests, then we can help you get it going.

 

[campbell1987]

Ok so i get 46.8v when all is connected up and turned on, I also get 4.28v on throttle connector, I was wanting to upgrade controller to a 48v one so it protects batteries a bit better as i am not using a BMS,

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Many 36v controllers don't like to go as high as a 48v battery, which will reach about 54v or more. It's possible that you've done some damage. You need a ebike tester to confirm. You can buy them quite cheaply from Ebay (£4.95 + £4.30 postage)

 

[campbell1987]

Ok, ill order that now, from hong kong so will take some time to arrive, While i buying stuff i may aswell buy new 48v controller and what ever else i will need to replace with it, Even if i fix the current ku65 i still want to upgrade controller to protect the battery pack i built, i know i need to also replace the start/stop button / battery meter but will i need to upgrade throttle and pas sensor aswell or will the 36v ones work?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The throttle and PAS work off the controller's 5v rail, which is always 5v regardless of the battery voltage.

 

[campbell1987]

Can you recommend a good 48v controller?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I've just reread the thread. You're using 12S, which is 44v, not 48v. You should be OK with a 36v controller. The problem is most 48v ones are for higher current. Is your motor with or without hall sensors?

 

[campbell1987]

I thought LiIon cells were 4.2v full and empty arround 3.7v so when designing my packs i did 4v per cell multiplied by 6 in series in each pack giving a total of 2 x 24v packs = 48v, It also reads over 48v when fully charged,

How can i tell if my motor has hall sensors or not?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The cells are nominally 3.7v, so 12 x 3.7 = 44v. A 48v battery has 13S.

Look at the wires coming from the motor. If you only have three phase wires, it's sensorless. If you have an additional 5 thin wires, it's sensored.

 

[campbell1987]

Ok thanks for that, i just have the green yellow and blue wires going to my motor,

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The S09P controller from BMSBattery might be a good choice if your battery can give 22A. It should be OK if you have 15ah or more. You have to buy a LCD and speed sensor to go with it. It has three-wire brake connectors. You connect yout two-wire brakes to the yellow and blue ones, leaving the red disconnected.

 

[campbell1987]

Ok so just installed new ku65 controller and now the wheel doesn't spinn it just shakes.... Any ideas?? Hope i haven't broke the hub motor... Here's a video showing the problem..

https://plus.google.com/101595950226797162261/posts/XrEa1UFUW9s

 

[Deleted member 4366]

There's two types that you can select in the options: type 1 and type 3. Which one did you get?

Assuming that you have the one that can work without hall sensors, it has to figure out what you have, and it doesn't always get it right first time.

Whatever you do, do not use more than a little bit of throttle until it's running correctly.

Try switching it on, give it a little bit of throttle, and then try and spin the wheel backwards a bit. It should kick into life. If it goes runs backwards, swap two of the phase wires.

 

[campbell1987]

ill need to check when i gt home but im pretty sure i got the type 1

https://bmsbattery.com/index.php?controller=attachment&id_attachment=25

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The type 1 has the three-speed switch connector with blue, black and green wires. I think it's the pld KU63, but with the added connector for the LED panel, so it should be OK sensorless. Did you try turning the motor backwards while it was juddering?

 

[campbell1987]

Yes Dave just home and tried it, Working fine now so thanks for that.. ;-) just one thing that doesn't seem to be working now though which was working before is when i apply either brake with throttle also applied then the motor still tries to spin the wheel even when the brakes are on, Not a big issue but just saying here incase someone has had the fault before and knows how to fix it,

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Your brakes aren't connected properly then, or the switches aren't working. What type do you have.

 

[campbell1987]

I'm not sure what type of brakes they are. I checked and reconnected both brake connections and tried again and it didnt make a difference, They worked fine on the old ku65 so they should be compatible with this one too.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

You can test that the lever is working with your meter on beep. Put one probe on each pin, and it should beep when you apply the brake.

You can test that the controller side is working by bridging the yellow and black wires, which should stop the motor.