Help! Hall Error 03 Akezbike Hall Sensor

[MistiK]

Hello

I bought an e bike off of fb marketplace. Gave it a test ride and it went great. I had to ride it home for about 40 mins. 20 mins into the ride it flashed now and again, info 3. As the battery drained it seemed to get worse. When I got home I fully charged it and gave it a ride. I'm getting the error all the time now.
Display is the KT LCD 5, Controller is KT36/48ZWSRM-AKZ01, HL Downtube type battery 48v 13ah LNWLNW-22.04.29 is the closest thing that looks like a model number.
It will continuously happen with throttle and intermittently with PAS, some levels worse than others.
When I have the flipped over or I hold the rear wheel wheel up(with the motor) and apply throttle or pedal, it may flash once whilst getting to max speed but that's it. If I hop on, it happens without a doubt.
I followed the ebikes dot ca troubleshooting on testing a hall sensor. The 3 sensor wires all fluctuated between 0 and 5 whilst rotating the wheel. I did notice though, 2 of the wires were in sync and the other was not.
E.G. 2 wires show 5v at once, the other 0. Rotate a bit and the volts reverse. Is that normal?
I checked for continuity from the controller end of the plug to the male endof the round plug that connects into the motor. All was good.
My settings are as follows:
P1 - 100
P2 - 1
P3 - 1
P4 - 0
P5 - 12
C1 - 02
C2 - 0
C3 - 8
C4 - 0
C5 - 10
C6 - 5
C7 - 0
C8 - 0
C9 - 0
C10 - n
C11 - 0
C12 - 4
C13 - 0
C14 - 2
L1 - 0
L2 - 0
L3 - 1

Not sure where to go from here as so far it seems the tests conclude that the hall sensor is fine. I would appreciate any help as I bought this to commute for work. This is also my first time using a multimeter and whilst I have an interest in it, I don't actually know that much about electronics.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Nealh]

Make sure the motor cable connector is pushed fully home (approx 20cm from the hub axle) , it is the most likely cause of an intermittent fault . Don't just look at it and say ok , pull the connector apart and check for traces of water ingress or damaged pins.
If all ok carefully align by the arrows and push it firmly home all the way to the line.
Test ride the bike to see if the fault clears.

 

[MistiK]

Hey Neal, thank you for the quick reply, I've read a lot of your answers on this issue around the forum.

I did mean to include that I had quadruple checked multiple times to make sure that it was plugged all the way in.

The line is flush against the opposing end, it takes quite some force to get it in and I'm certain it can't go in further

Regards

 

[MistiK]

But actually I will try it another time right now just to make certain.

 

[MistiK]

Having issues uploading from my phone but it's as far in as I can push it and the error still occurs

 

[MistiK]

Did a full lookover of the wires and pins from controller all the way to the wheel and it all looks to be in perfect order.

The guy I got it off was a young teenager, maaaybe 15. He had just barely put 120Ks on it.

I took it forever a quick ride and it's all the same right now. Walk mode flashes error 03 for a solid minute before it will return to home screen.
PAS1 Will flash 03 when I first start riding briefly but then nothing until between 15-20Ks and it'll flash every other minute, it depends how hard I'm pedalling. PAS2 seems to be the same. And then it gets progressively worse until PAS5.

Throttle is hard to describe, when first starting, from a low speed it'll work fine until ~15Ks. Then it's flashing error on and off constantly. If I go from cruising in PAS fine and switch to throttle (or throttle + pas) the motor will run but won't actually do anything and I slowly lose speed.

 

[saneagle]

Logically, you have an intermittent fault on one of the hall wires. That could be caused by any of these reasons:
1. Damage to the motor cable, like cut where it comes out of the axle or squished by a too tight cable tie.
2. Faulty connector at the controller end.
3. Bad solder to the controller pcb
4. Water in the motor, especially if the cable exits upwards.
5. Hall wires rubbed through insulation inside the motor.

There are many other random possibilities. You just have to use logic and a bit of luck to find it.

 

[MistiK]

Logically, you have an intermittent fault on one of the hall wires. That could be caused by any of these reasons:
1. Damage to the motor cable, like cut where it comes out of the axle or squished by a too tight cable tie.
2. Faulty connector at the controller end.
3. Bad solder to the controller pcb
4. Water in the motor, especially if the cable exits upwards.
5. Hall wires rubbed through insulation inside the motor.

There are many other random possibilities. You just have to use logic and a bit of luck to find it.

Thanks, it's bed time for me but will be looking tomorrow. There are 2 possible places I can think of that there may be issue. However I have a problem. I took the wheel off to get a glance at the motor but I've hit a snag. There were 6 screws holding a plate in place, they were tight as hell and I was certain I was going to strip the heads but ended okay. But now I can't get the plate off, it seems to be sealed. If I rule out issues being outside of there, wth do I do?

 

[Nealh]

The hub face plate doesn't come off until the gear cluster has been removed.

Tracing an intermittent fault on the Hall line may be time consuming and is a process of illimination. If cable ties are used to secure the motor cable then they would be one process out of the way.
I use velco ties on all cables as cable ties cause pinching.

 

[saneagle]

Thanks, it's bed time for me but will be looking tomorrow. There are 2 possible places I can think of that there may be issue. However I have a problem. I took the wheel off to get a glance at the motor but I've hit a snag. There were 6 screws holding a plate in place, they were tight as hell and I was certain I was going to strip the heads but ended okay. But now I can't get the plate off, it seems to be sealed. If I rule out issues being outside of there, wth do I do?

Bash the axle on the other side of the plate to remove the motor core with the plate. if you need to look nehind the plate, you can use two blocks and bash the other end of the axle.

 

[MistiK]

Thank you guys for the info, I'm going to do a couple more tests and then look for a short. There is a bit of a pinch on one zip tie I noticed.

 

[MistiK]

Here's what I did: changed c5 setting to 8 and 9 (lowering current). The bike didn't like it at all. Threw the error, wouldn't go at all and took a bit for it to get back to "normal".
Retested voltage at the plug
I was shown a picture of how hall sensors should test/change independently of each other, resulting in 6 configurations of different states of the sensors.
I got all but one to show up.
I found a position for the wheel that showed 0v to all 3 sensors, this obviously caused the error and wouldn't go at all.
Not wanting to cut the lead to look for a short, I thought I could purposely cause one myself. With the throttle applied I twisted, pulled, tugged, bent the lead in various places especially where the zip tie was tight and where the lead enters the hub. I also used a spanner to tap the axle and controller. This didn't lead to anything.

Does this still sound like a short and should my next move be looking inside the hub?

 

[saneagle]

Can you tell us exactly what bike/motor/kit you have?

 

[MistiK]

It's an Akezbike, I'm unable to find the exact one online, I'll upload a picture.
Display is KT LCD5
Battery is a HL Downtube 48v 13ah 750W
Controller is a KT36/48ZWSRM-AKZ01
The motor/hub has nothing on it to indicate the model.

 

[MistiK]

Actually just found on the hub: XS48V750W26#2022040019

 

[saneagle]

It's an Akezbike, I'm unable to find the exact one online, I'll upload a picture.
Display is KT LCD5
Battery is a HL Downtube 48v 13ah 750W
Controller is a KT36/48ZWSRM-AKZ01
The motor/hub has nothing on it to indicate the model.

Thanks. It's all pretty standard stuff. You've done most of the obvious things. Now you have to look for the un-obvious. I'm lucky because I have many motors, controllers, LCDs etc that I can swap out if simple measurements don't give the answer. Do you know anybody with a hub-motored bike? All you need to do is bring them side by side, unplug the motor connectors and plug yours into the other motor. It takes about 10 seconds.

Where do you live? Maybe someone can help you out.

 

[MistiK]

I took her into a shop to get fixed up because I didn't really want to open the hub and mess around. Turns out that's where the problem was and they fixed it. The sensors were pulling away from where they should have been seated. They glued it down but now it's happening again after a week or so, about 2hrs total riding time. I find that I can feel every bump especially on the back so I feel after I move them back down it's going to be a consistent intermittent issue.

 

[MistiK]

Where do you live? Maybe someone can help you out.

I'm around Werribee, Vic, Australia. I've posted what the issue was

 

[saneagle]

I took her into a shop to get fixed up because I didn't really want to open the hub and mess around. Turns out that's where the problem was and they fixed it. The sensors were pulling away from where they should have been seated. They glued it down but now it's happening again after a week or so, about 2hrs total riding time. I find that I can feel every bump especially on the back so I feel after I move them back down it's going to be a consistent intermittent issue.

The hall sensors should be epoxied in so that they can't come out.

 

[MistiK]

The hall sensors should be epoxied in so that they can't come out.

Yeah I'm goonna do that tomorrow, I opened the hub as soon as I got home (had to ride it home still) and the glue had melted.
The shop said the glue would melt at 68c, it was ~7 in the morning on my way to work. I guess I'm going to have to pedal more.