Help with battery wiring please

[aardvark5]

I have sent an email to the supplier but I need an answer so I can work on it tomorrow if possible.
I've been having intermittent electrical problems with my 36v 9Ah bottle battery so decided to remove the cable and was presented with two wires which had come off the pins and two wires still connected.
There are 4 pins and 2 wires but it looks like all 4 pins are/were connected so maybe the black is split to 2 pins and the red is split to 2 pins or could it be red split to 3 pins?

Here is a couple of pictures of what is connected and the pin numbers so if anybody knows the correct wiring I would appreciate it.
As you can see it looks like 1 & 4 were connected but they have broke off. It also looks like they were connected with red from the picture but that would mean 1, 2 & 4 connected with red!
Just to make sure the top two pins are 1 & 4 and the bottom two are 2 & 3 (I typed the numbers in slightly the wrong place).

 

[Deleted member 4366]

There should be two of each. You need to check the other connector to see which pins the controller red and black are connected to. The battery side should be matched to it.

 

[aardvark5]

This is the cable so only two wires but it looks like the 2 wires are connected to all 4 pins.

 

[aardvark5]

As you can see all 4 pins look like they have been soldered to -

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Each wire should be fitted to two pins. There are two halves to the connector, each with 4 pins ans two wires. They should match, so check the other half.

 

[aardvark5]

This is the problem, two are broken off and I can't see where they broke off from.
2 & 3 are still connected but I have no idea what goes on 1 & 4.
From the top picture it looks like the red would go on 1 & 4 but it is definitely on pin 2 so what does the other red go on?
Common sense would say pin 1.

 

[aardvark5]

I've had my magnifying glass on it and if I twist a little bit it looks like red goes on pins 1 & 2 and black goes on 3 & 4 but I'd like confirmation.

 

[Alan Quay]

I've had my magnifying glass on it and if I twist a little bit it looks like red goes on pins 1 & 2 and black goes on 3 & 4 but I'd like confirmation.

I think you are misunderstanding. D8veh is asking you to look at the other connector, to confirm how it is wired. It's the only way to be sure, all else is guess work.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

That's right. Look at pins 5, 6, 7 and 8.

 

[aardvark5]

The only other connector I can see is on the battery so I assume you mean that? I don't want to take that apart because of warranty however the wiring could also be a mess in there if sparks have been flying around. I do fix lots of band gear such as amps/PA systems/leads so I see this quite often.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Use a voltmeter to check the pins on the other connector. There will be two 0v and two 40v.

 

[aardvark5]

Use a voltmeter to check the pins on the other connector. There will be two 0v and two 40v.

That worked and I also took the battery apart.
Reds are on 1 & 2.

Thanks

 

[aardvark5]

All working now, thanks.

Quite strange that even though one red and one black were broken off the bike was still working to a point.
It was only when I gave it a lot of throttle that the display would turn off and then come back on 5 seconds later.
If I put pedal assist on 3 or more it would also have a problem.

 

[JamesW]

Not strange at all. The electrical path was always there. The reason for 2 pins going to the red and 2 to the black is that the pins will only pass a certain amount of current. More power was being demanded than the single pin could supply but 2 in parallel would have been able to cope - hence okay at low speeds/ pas level but when more power required you saw issues.

 

[aardvark5]

Cyclotricity once again provide excellent customer service.
I emailed them at the same time I posted the problem here and 3 months after warranty they sent me a new lead when I explained it was probably my fault by putting the battery on while turned on.

 

[aardvark5]

Bugger, both my repaired lead and new lead haven't worked

Here's my problem, I can cycle along no problem on pedal assist 2 but when I decide to give a bit of throttle to go up a bank my computer screen will go off and it will be about 5 seconds before it comes back on and I'm on pedal assist 2.
If I put it on 3 or above it will also go dead for 5 seconds.

Any ideas?

I have got a spare battery so I'll try that tomorrow.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

It's possible you battery is knackered - maybe had water in it? You need to get a voltmeter that you can see in realtime to see what's happening.

Look at Ebay item number 321547868770

 

[aardvark5]

I've got one of these ordered from another thread I started - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390932345418?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

The bike was left in my garage from Sep 23rd 2014 until I tried to take it out on Dec 27th and it suddenly had the problem.
The battery was left on the bike all that time.

I know the date because I picked up my new Trek Conversion on that date.
I'll have to try the battery on my Trek to see if it fails on that.

Thanks

 

[JamesW]

Bugger, both my repaired lead and new lead haven't worked

Here's my problem, I can cycle along no problem on pedal assist 2 but when I decide to give a bit of throttle to go up a bank my computer screen will go off and it will be about 5 seconds before it comes back on and I'm on pedal assist 2.
If I put it on 3 or above it will also go dead for 5 seconds.

Any ideas?

I have got a spare battery so I'll try that tomorrow.

I've been having issues for the past month with occasional cutouts getting worse and worse. I played with the motor cables at the train station one morning and found I had killed it entirely. After an hour testing it that evening I traced the problem to the PAS sensor was causing issues. Still haven't full investigated, I've just disconnected it and got full throttle control and 100% reliablility back for the first time in months now! - you might want to check the PAS sensor is not causing the fault (If you have a throttle override that you can test with, you can eliminate a large current draw this way!)

 

[aardvark5]

I've been having issues for the past month with occasional cutouts getting worse and worse. I played with the motor cables at the train station one morning and found I had killed it entirely. After an hour testing it that evening I traced the problem to the PAS sensor was causing issues. Still haven't full investigated, I've just disconnected it and got full throttle control and 100% reliablility back for the first time in months now! - you might want to check the PAS sensor is not causing the fault (If you have a throttle override that you can test with, you can eliminate a large current draw this way!)

That's worth trying, I suppose all I have to do is pull the leads apart however my Cyclotricity bike is really heavy and with no assist it's like riding up bank everywhere but since the cabling is so easy I can just put them back together so I'll experiment.
I don't use assist at all on my Trek 7.5FX conversion because the bike is so light and I only give it a bit of throttle now and then.

Also, even if I have pedal assist set to zero does it still draw a current?