Hub motor power upgrade

AlexGrant88

Finding my (electric) wheels
Nov 29, 2020
7
1
Evening all, I've got a Synch super monkey with a 250w Bafang hub motor. I was reading earlier that I don't necessarily need to get a bigger motor to get more power out of it. The battery is a Hailong 36v 13aH unit. I've looked online and I can get a 48v 18aH battery for around £200 on Amazon, what controller would I need and would just plugging the controller in automatically give me a power boost or would I need to fiddle with electrics to unleash the power? Would I also need to change the display or do anything to it? Thanks in advance.
 

AlexGrant88

Finding my (electric) wheels
Nov 29, 2020
7
1
It was restricted but I managed to take the restriction off. It does 23 or 24mph with the wheel in the air.
 

vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
9,822
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Basildon
If you're happy with the speed, you can probably increase the power by soldering the shunt in the controller that doesn't cost anything. Is there any sort of label on the controller?
 

AlexGrant88

Finding my (electric) wheels
Nov 29, 2020
7
1
It would be nice to get more speed out of it as I find it's out of puff when I try to keep up with friends on conventional bikes. I'll have a look at the controller when I get home. Where would I solder? Also would I not need to change the battery?
 
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vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
9,822
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Basildon
It would be nice to get more speed out of it as I find it's out of puff when I try to keep up with friends on conventional bikes. I'll have a look at the controller when I get home. Where would I solder? Also would I not need to change the battery?
Let's see what's on the label first.
 

WheezyRider

Esteemed Pedelecer
Apr 20, 2020
1,679
930
It would be nice to get more speed out of it as I find it's out of puff when I try to keep up with friends on conventional bikes. I'll have a look at the controller when I get home. Where would I solder? Also would I not need to change the battery?
How fast do you want to go?
 

Spinnanz

Pedelecer
Feb 18, 2019
56
17
That unit looks to be epexy filled, makes it a pain to do a shunt mod.

If it's 250w @36v, you should be able to get 336w out of it if run on a 48v battery, assuming it can run 48v.

A far cheaper option would be an aftermarket controller. Running your current 36v battery at 13a would give you around 470w.
 

AlexGrant88

Finding my (electric) wheels
Nov 29, 2020
7
1
I did wonder this, if it was easier to just buy a new controller. Do you happen to know what I should be looking for in a new controller and would it be easy to wire up?
 

vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
9,822
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Basildon
The inside of the controller is coated with something, probably that clear jelly stuff, which would make shunt soldering difficult. The wires are blocking the view of the pcb, so I can't see what type of shunt you have.
The label is not very helpful either. I would guess that the 22 and 3 in the designation means 22A and 36v, but that's a pure guess. You'd have to measure it with a wattmeter or similar to determine what it is.
 

AlexGrant88

Finding my (electric) wheels
Nov 29, 2020
7
1
That unit looks to be epexy filled, makes it a pain to do a shunt mod.

If it's 250w @36v, you should be able to get 336w out of it if run on a 48v battery, assuming it can run 48v.

A far cheaper option would be an aftermarket controller. Running your current 36v battery at 13a would give you around 470w.

Would you happen to know which controller I would need? Would it be easy enough to wire up? If I was to get a new controller and a 48v battery. What kind of power would I get them? Or is that not worth it?
 

Spinnanz

Pedelecer
Feb 18, 2019
56
17
This will run your motor at 13a. It can run 24-48v according to the specs however I think it actually goes up to 52v.

It WILL need wiring in. 3 wires for throttle, 2 for power, 3 for PAS if you want that, 3 for motor and I think 5 for hall sensors.

 

vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
9,822
3,986
Basildon
It's impossible to recommend anything without knowing how much power you already have. Does your LCD have a setting to display power? If not, you should wire in a wattmeter to show what's happening. To mwasure the maximum power, lidt the wheel off the ground, spin it up with the throttle, then apply the brake to slow it right down while you hold full-throttle.

There are modifications that you can do to these meters to allow you to fit them remotely, like on the handlebars, where you can observe your power at all times, which is very enlightening regarding how an ebike works, and you can then use one as an accurate battery meter for range.
 

AlexGrant88

Finding my (electric) wheels
Nov 29, 2020
7
1
This will run your motor at 13a. It can run 24-48v according to the specs however I think it actually goes up to 52v.

It WILL need wiring in. 3 wires for throttle, 2 for power, 3 for PAS if you want that, 3 for motor and I think 5 for hall sensors.


Thank you so much for that. It looks like it should all be mostly plug and play apart from a few wires. Is that right? Would I need to use that display or could I use the one that's already on my bike?
 

Benjahmin

Esteemed Pedelecer
Nov 10, 2014
2,484
1,696
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West Wales
Controllers and displays will only work when bought as matched pairs.
Yhere mat well be some soldering needed between new controller and existing system.
 

BongoBert

Just Joined
Oct 8, 2021
2
0
It was restricted but I managed to take the restriction off. It does 23 or 24mph with the wheel in the air.
Hi , I’ve got a super monkey , with the 250/350/500 bafang motor , mine has the 48v battery, loads of acceleration but it stops at about 17mph , how did you manage to increase your top end?
 

Big G

Just Joined
Sep 2, 2022
1
0
It was restricted but I managed to take the restriction off. It does 23 or 24mph with the wheel in the air.
How did you manage to take the restriction off? Been looking around for a long time but can't seem to find any answers
 

stargazer30

Pedelecer
Sep 29, 2020
44
21
It would be nice to get more speed out of it as I find it's out of puff when I try to keep up with friends on conventional bikes. I'll have a look at the controller when I get home. Where would I solder? Also would I not need to change the battery?
Bear in mind your bike is as about as aerodynamic as a brick. So if your mates are of the 70kg wet through and on drop bar bikes type then you're going to need an exponentially higher amount of watts to keep up with them :)
 

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