Kt-lcd5 version 1

camper geek

Just Joined
Mar 11, 2023
2
0
Hi guys,
I have just bought a mirider 1.
Mostly satisfied with it.

Holding the up and down button doesn't get me into the parameters as I'd hoped it would to " adjust the backlighting..."
Would great fully appreciate assistance in getting in.
Also..hypothetical the hand throttle is worthless. It goes so slow you would fall of the bike.
Is it possible to put this up a wee bit and if so, guidance would be appreciated.
Thanks guys
 

AGS

Esteemed Pedelecer
Feb 12, 2023
563
174
C6 adjusts the backlight. You are locked out of the P and C settings so you can’t alter it from the factory settings.

C4 would solve the problem you are experiencing with the throttle, but once again you are locked out so you can’t change this function either. This has been factory set to comply with UK law.

You will need to buy a new display if you want to change the P and C parameters. They are readily available on eBay for around £35 or you can upgrade to an LCD03 or even an LCD08 if that takes your fancy. You just have make sure you choose one with the correct connector so you don’t have to hack your wiring about.

Also changing the display and adjusting the P and C parameters will invalidate your warranty if it is a brand new bike, and could make it illegal to use on public roads.
 
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camper geek

Just Joined
Mar 11, 2023
2
0
C6 adjusts the backlight. You are locked out of the P and C settings so you can’t alter it from the factory settings.

C4 would solve the problem you are experiencing with the throttle, but once again you are locked out so you can’t change this function either. This has been factory set to comply with UK law.

You will need to buy a new display if you want to change the P and C parameters. They are readily available on eBay for around £35 or you can upgrade to an LCD03 or even an LCD08 if that takes your fancy. You just have make sure you choose one with the correct connector so you don’t have to hack your wiring about.

Also changing the display and adjusting the P and C parameters will invalidate your warranty if it is a brand new bike, and could make it illegal to use on public roads.
Thanks matey
 

glenmore3685

Just Joined
Nov 1, 2023
3
0
C6 adjusts the backlight. You are locked out of the P and C settings so you can’t alter it from the factory settings.

C4 would solve the problem you are experiencing with the throttle, but once again you are locked out so you can’t change this function either. This has been factory set to comply with UK law.

You will need to buy a new display if you want to change the P and C parameters. They are readily available on eBay for around £35 or you can upgrade to an LCD03 or even an LCD08 if that takes your fancy. You just have make sure you choose one with the correct connector so you don’t have to hack your wiring about.

Also changing the display and adjusting the P and C parameters will invalidate your warranty if it is a brand new bike, and could make it illegal to use on public roads.
I'm going to buy a new KT-LCD 5 from eBay with a view to changing some settings on my Mirider One. I know there is a pdf manual for the KT-LCD 5 but it's not the most straightforward document to decipher for someone that doesn't really know what they are doing. Does anyone know if there is a better guide to the settings and changes available?

Thanks in advance.
 

thelarkbox

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 23, 2023
857
259
oxon
I'm going to buy a new KT-LCD 5 from eBay with a view to changing some settings on my Mirider One. I know there is a pdf manual for the KT-LCD 5 but it's not the most straightforward document to decipher for someone that doesn't really know what they are doing. Does anyone know if there is a better guide to the settings and changes available?

Thanks in advance.
Welcome to 'the dark side' Joking aside,Im stood beside you trying to decipher my own lcd3 manual.
However Wait until you have it plugged in before worrying, Like me you may only have 1 or 2 settings you need to consider in order to get everything up and running. Which when prepared for with a nice strong cup of tea and focus is not too bad even if it involves a bit of trial and error..

Ive not seen any posts from folk buying new kt kit and being totally stumped. Mostly its folk 60, 70, 80, or 90% there struggling with a Chenglish phrasing or a typo even..

If you do find yourself stumped from the outset with your new headset, just post in here and Im sure the folk in the know will sort you out .. and if its a pas enable setting you need I may even be able to chirp in with a helpful tip ;)
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
20,461
8,346
61
West Sx RH
KT Lcd's are quite easy to adjust, one depresses +/- pads for approx. 5-10 secs to enter basic parameters , one can change units metric or imp, speed, wheel size etc,etc . When scrolled to the end depress the on/off quickly to enter P settings and then when scrolled to the end depress again to enter C settings. One only gets 5 secs for each change so you can't dawdle otherwise one has to go back to the very first stage and start again.

P1 is motor speed syncing with the motor winding magnets & internal gear ratio.
Get the value badly wrong and one won't hit the correct registered travelling speed.
Getting the correct value is fairly easy even if one doesn't know how many magnets or the ratio.
P2 is internal or wheel speed magnet signals, 1 or 6 are the two main values.
P3 is simply drive mode speed or current control.
P4 is throttle set up.
P5 is the battery meter display in the lcd and how the lag/sag registers.

C1 isfor selecting the correct value for the sensor/magnet disc type used.
This one is most often set incorrectly and stops the PAS working.
C2 is phase selection default is usually 0.
C3 PAS selection, the number selected is the PAS level the bike will default to when switched on. 0- 5 is self explanetary, 8 is auto and will default to the last level used.
C4 is throttle actuation and speed based on how P4 is set up.
C5 is current level adjustment .
C6 is display back light brightness.
C7 is cruise function.
C8 is motor temp ( no temp sensor is installed), as there is no wiring .
C9 is password setting.
C10 is a restore function to default.
C11 is display comms and 0 is default unless lcd 1 or 2 are used.
C12 is controller LVC.
C13 is ABS regen .
C14 is PAS signal strength.
C15 is Walk Assist spd setting.

Some displays have L settings.
L1 is controller LVC as in C12.
L2 is P1 related if the P1 setting is beyond 255.
L3 is Hall sensor related and can default to motor Hall failure if selected.
L4 is display shut down time.
 
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Sturmey

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jan 26, 2018
584
324
67
Ireland
.......Holding the up and down button doesn't get me into the parameters as I'd hoped it would to " adjust the backlighting..."
Would great fully appreciate assistance in getting in............
Dont forget that 'Holding the up and down button' must normally be done immediately (within 5 seconds) after switching/powering on the bike with the center power on button.
 

glenmore3685

Just Joined
Nov 1, 2023
3
0
Thanks all. I've found a video on YouTube with the default settings for the Mirider One so I can start with them and modify in the areas I want to experiment with.
 

glenmore3685

Just Joined
Nov 1, 2023
3
0
KT Lcd's are quite easy to adjust, one depresses +/- pads for approx. 5-10 secs to enter basic parameters , one can change units metric or imp, speed, wheel size etc,etc . When scrolled to the end depress the on/off quickly to enter P settings and then when scrolled to the end depress again to enter C settings. One only gets 5 secs for each change so you can't dawdle otherwise one has to go back to the very first stage and start again.

P1 is motor speed syncing with the motor winding magnets & internal gear ratio.
Get the value badly wrong and one won't hit the correct registered travelling speed.
Getting the correct value is fairly easy even if one doesn't know how many magnets or the ratio.
P2 is internal or wheel speed magnet signals, 1 or 6 are the two main values.
P3 is simply drive mode speed or current control.
P4 is throttle set up.
P5 is the battery meter display in the lcd and how the lag/sag registers.

C1 isfor selecting the correct value for the sensor/magnet disc type used.
This one is most often set incorrectly and stops the PAS working.
C2 is phase selection default is usually 0.
C3 PAS selection, the number selected is the PAS level the bike will default to when switched on. 0- 5 is self explanetary, 8 is auto and will default to the last level used.
C4 is throttle actuation and speed based on how P4 is set up.
C5 is current level adjustment .
C6 is display back light brightness.
C7 is cruise function.
C8 is motor temp ( no temp sensor is installed), as there is no wiring .
C9 is password setting.
C10 is a restore function to default.
C11 is display comms and 0 is default unless lcd 1 or 2 are used.
C12 is controller LVC.
C13 is ABS regen .
C14 is PAS signal strength.
C15 is Walk Assist spd setting.

Some displays have L settings.
L1 is controller LVC as in C12.
L2 is P1 related if the P1 setting is beyond 255.
L3 is Hall sensor related and can default to motor Hall failure if selected.
L4 is display shut down time.
Thanks @Nealh - which parameter do you change to increase the speed assistance is provided to?
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
20,461
8,346
61
West Sx RH
Speed assistance is changed in the first basic set up one enters in to, one can select mph or kmh. The first parameter is the speed setting which will flash so just use the up/down pads to change the value, the mph/kmh value is set after the 3rd or 4th press and one will see the small writing change between mph/kmh with a press of the up/down pads. How ever the max assist speed one can attain is dependant on the motor winding rpm and the voltage used.
Typically most bikes will attain 15 /16mph with the motor winding provided for the correct wheel size, one can fool the speed reading by selecting a smaller wheel size but then the odometer will over read the true mileage count by over clocking.

If one has a 201rpm winding then 15/16 mph will be the max, 260rpm will be nearer 20mph and a higher winding up to 320rpm will see about 24/25mph.

The old Oxydrive kits using the brilliant Bafang CST and DASkit were excellent at 36v and one could max out at 24.5mph with the 17a lishui controller, I think these hubs were wound for about 300rpm. I still have my CST and it is a nice motor as is the AKM128cst both are superb all round motors , I used both of mine for off road and mtb bikes and there was no where they didn't take me . Unlike mid drives one doesn't have to make any mods to protect them from heat, water or mud because they are bullet proof and 100% relaible.
 
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