Motor Blown Up?
- Thread starter stever1957
- Start date
OK I will rephrase that. Wagos rely on the current carrying conductor to retain it in the connector. The insulation is not retained as it should be in an automotive connector. Any connector that is subject to vibration should have secondary retention either through mechanical clamping of the sheath or moulding of the sheath to remove stress (particularly through movement or vibration) from the conductor. Wagos do not do this unless they are inside a junction box with cable glands.
I am astounded that a bicycle manufacturer is advocating using such a system as a permanent solution!
I know that is what he wrote originally, I was more concerned that as you had already tested with terminal blocks you were then going to fit Wagos.
If I understand correctly, the problem is narrowed down to one small signal wire inside the controller box which forms with the rack battery a continuous box. The box is splashproof and the cables exit through a hole under the saddle. Saneagle has always recommended to solder everything but the OP would like to retain the possibility to disconnect the controller should it need replacing. The white wire is from memory, terminated on a mini JST connector. The crimp has a little lip, when you push it into the shell of the connector, the protruding lip acts like a latch, retains the crimp inside the plastic body. To repair it, I normally use a scalpel to make the lip to stick out a bit more and push it back in. If the crimp is damaged, I would put a new crimp.
Besides the white wire, I thought that the OP found that one of the phase wires had its 4mm bullet crimp overheated and its transparent plastic sleeve melted. I thought that the OP wanted to fix this. Hence WAGO as a temporary solution.
Some pictures would help avoiding going in circles.
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To me it reads more like a connector at the motor.
Still wouldn't use a Wago for anything other than testing even if it is inside a controller box
At the time that the wago was suggested, I genuinely did not know what the problem was. It's only a little later that Stephen mentioned the white wire.
It appears to be the ( 6 pin Julet connector ? ) motor connector, as Steve has now got the motor working I would opt to solder and shrink each of the phase wires or use an MT60 tri connector for them and then simply shrink the MT60 with a large size shrink. The shrink can be carefully removed if need be for motor wheel removal or use some amalgam tape to water proof.
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The three thin wires are Hall wires , so Red 5v , Black Gnd and White signal for speed, the bike can run without those . One can use small bullets for those wires as they carry little current , it is the three phase that carry more current hence the melting arking issues causing smoke.
The Halls if an issue one could just heat shrink the ends and not connect them and simply tape them up and secure them, an alternative if one wants a speed sensor is to fit a wheel spoke magnet and Hall sensor. One can pick up the three Hall wires at the controller .
They do, after making a permanent repair cover any repairs with heatshrink, maybe 2 layers then use self amalgamating tape over the whole lot.
Do not use any of those type of connectors on an ebike. They're designed for stationary indoor use. In ebike conditions, the exposed copper will rot and break in a very short time.I see, thank you too
Waterproof doesn't help. It's air that does the damage and any vibration finishes it off.