Help! Motor Connectors

[Benjahmin]

Looks like the block/bullet phase connector for my motor is causing heat and possibly noise problems.

It sits in this box on the fork, along with the hall connector.

This is what it looks like now
I need to replace it with either something that will fit in the box, or something waterproof I can put outside.
Anyone got any product steers?
Thanks.

 

[Nealh]

For a permanent solution as you have directly solder and shrink each wire in side the case/box.

For a removable connector/s still protected within the case/box we will need internal depth of box when closed up, then maybe we can suggest suitable connectors.

For phase I don't use singular bullets but use MT60 all-in-one triple phase connector, for halls I use the standard dj7061 connector.

MT60 is 30a continuous & 60a peak rated.

 

[Benjahmin]

Thanks Neal. I think they should work 'cos , with the addition of some heat shrink, I think these can be waterproof. Then the halls can still fit inside the box.
Incidently, I found this from Grin, they reckon MT60 are 100A max. Think that'll be enough

https://www.ebikes.ca/learn/connectors.html#mt60.
Hope it helps someone else.

 

[Nealh]

100a may be wishful thinking and isn't a continuous rating, the XT/MT60 handles less current then the larger XT90 which is rated for 90a continuous.

The continuous rating is in the product numbering;
XT30 30a
XT60 60a
XT90 90a

A higher peak rating can be used for shorter bursts.

 

[Benjahmin]

Gotcha.
With a 20A controller I'm guessing 60A should be fine. Ordered some (had to be yellow, no black available) we'll see how well I can solder. Ordered two pairs just in case!

 

[Nealh]

With the MT60 there is no need to insulate as there is an insulator end that is supplied with wire compartments for separation.. The male/female connector only has one orientation of fitting so make sure you get the second connector wired up correctly before soldering.

You don't need a very powerful iron 60-80w is fine use a broader tip for better heat application and 0.8mm or 1mm solder. Be sure to slide the insulator up the wire s first.
My preferred tip is a flat 4mm chisel tip for better heat dissipation.

Bare the wire end and tin it, don't tin the connector as it can make it difficult to seat the wire end proper, place the tinned end in the connector lug end apply nice broad heat to the tinned wire then feed in the reeled solder making a nice fluid pool then remove iron heat. Hold in place until you see the solder cool change colour.
A third hand is very useful whether mechanical or human one.

 

[Benjahmin]

Finally got round to it. The existing connector, when I eventualy got it apart, showed quite a bit of heat damage on the green.

Some dodgy knife work left me with this


Cut them off and set to with the MT60's. Had real problems getting the cable to tin, think it had been oxidised by heat and had to cut back around an inch to get it to take.
Ended up having to tin the lug as well because that just wouldn't take. Had to cut and resolder the hall wires because the plug's been heat welded. One for a future visit.
Antway, plug is small enough to fit original box.

Most important thing is that it's now running quieter and smoother. Time and again, on this forum, it has been said how much noise and vibration phase imbalance causes. Somehow it didn't apply to my bike but,lo, it did! So, once again, thanks for the education guys.

 

[Nealh]

Good job well done, poor contacts can make a bike feel like crap on the power delivery.