Puncture repair?
- Thread starter bigclick
- Start date
You will most likely find that the tyres are of a tubeless version but tubes have been fitted.
Remove and repair the tube or remove the tube, get a fit a tubeless valve and some sealant.
Either way, you will need to remove the tyre initially.
bigclick, you will find that the tyres aren't tubeless.
I initially thought just the same. It actually states 'tubeless ready'
What you have probably already discovered, is that the tyre bead is stuck fast to the side on the rim, and this was exactly what lead me to think that they are tubeless. Give the side a really hard squeeze and the bead/seal will be broken.
The rest as the say is easy, and the through axle makes dropping the rear wheel out a pleasure. Release the clutch mechanism on the rear derailleur first if you have it set, and select the smallest cog on the cassette before trying to remove the wheel. There is no need to remove the brake pads, and obviously don't touch the brake lever whilst the wheel is out. Refitting is just as easy as removal.
Watch that the cassette and free wheel hub also don't drop off. They are press fitted and I was caught out with this one just a couple of days ago, and ended up with the bits all over the floor. An odd thing to happen given that I take the rear wheel out when I clean the bike after every ride. It just gave me a bit more to clean, and in a way makes maintenance even easier..
I now just need to buy the correct/recommended Swiss DT grease.
I initially thought just the same. It actually states 'tubeless ready'
What you have probably already discovered, is that the tyre bead is stuck fast to the side on the rim, and this was exactly what lead me to think that they are tubeless. Give the side a really hard squeeze and the bead/seal will be broken.
The rest as the say is easy, and the through axle makes dropping the rear wheel out a pleasure. Release the clutch mechanism on the rear derailleur first if you have it set, and select the smallest cog on the cassette before trying to remove the wheel. There is no need to remove the brake pads, and obviously don't touch the brake lever whilst the wheel is out. Refitting is just as easy as removal.
Watch that the cassette and free wheel hub also don't drop off. They are press fitted and I was caught out with this one just a couple of days ago, and ended up with the bits all over the floor. An odd thing to happen given that I take the rear wheel out when I clean the bike after every ride. It just gave me a bit more to clean, and in a way makes maintenance even easier..
I now just need to buy the correct/recommended Swiss DT grease.
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It's very easy to accidentally squeeze the brake lever, particularly if you have the bike upside down.
Quality bikes (!) like my Rose come with a bit of plastic to shove between the pads when the wheel is out.
If you don't have the Magura Transport Device, a bit of folded cereal packet will do just as well.
Quality bikes (!) like my Rose come with a bit of plastic to shove between the pads when the wheel is out.
If you don't have the Magura Transport Device, a bit of folded cereal packet will do just as well.
I have the blue plastic spacers havent used them though.
I blew the tyre up and looked for bubbles didnt find any and the tyre wasnt going down. so its probaly a slow punture. Now I know its a tube il fix it as "normal" I thought they were tubeless foir the very reason Eddie pointed out, the beads seem stuck solid.
If it hasnt gone down tomorrow then it might have been a loose valve (new bike syndrome)
Also found a loose spoke today on the front wheel, I gave it a few turns with the spoke tool, I dont think thats over the top is it?
I blew the tyre up and looked for bubbles didnt find any and the tyre wasnt going down. so its probaly a slow punture. Now I know its a tube il fix it as "normal" I thought they were tubeless foir the very reason Eddie pointed out, the beads seem stuck solid.
If it hasnt gone down tomorrow then it might have been a loose valve (new bike syndrome)
Also found a loose spoke today on the front wheel, I gave it a few turns with the spoke tool, I dont think thats over the top is it?
[quote="EddiePJ, post: 244944, member: 10334" An odd thing to happen given that I take the rear wheel out when I clean the bike after every ride. It just gave me a bit more to clean, and in a way makes maintenance even easier..
I now just need to buy the correct/recommended Swiss DT grease.[/quote]
youtube says the DT Swis are toolless?
I now just need to buy the correct/recommended Swiss DT grease.[/quote]
youtube says the DT Swis are toolless?
Fill a bath with about five inches of cold water and slowly run the tyre through it.
That ought to show any leak, particularly if you make sure there's plenty of air in the tyre before you start.
The spoke needs to be a similar tension to all the others.
Judging that comes from experience, but you may get an idea by plucking some other spokes and judging if the tightened one feels - and sounds - the same.
It is.
You still require a cassette/bottom bracket tool to remove the cassette from the free hub body though.
If your cassette etc does come off, it's no big deal, but just make sure that there is no grit or other debris between the faces of the components when you press it back on again.
edit....I've just looked at the price of DT Swiss ratchet grease!!!!!
You need to re mortgage to buy it.
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Thanks Rob, I'l give that a go when her indoors aint around.
I think I matched the tension of the other spokes.
Question: They dont feel super tight to me, Is this because they're quality wheels? They make a note if I tap them but not a full on ringing note.
Sounds (ho-ho) about right to me, assuming the wheel is reasonably true.
I take it all the spokes cross, the friction at the cross helps to stop the spoke 'unwinding' in use.
Radial and parallel designs look flash, but are not so clever in other ways.
Warm water (well as hot as you can make it) works much better than cold water as it heats up the air and thus really hard to find holes will show up.
Only way I could find leaks in my Exped Synmat UL 7 was through the use of hot water ... nothing showed up when using cold water.
Andrew
I'd still be removing it to check, as you know that it will fail at the worst possible time.its been three days and no discernible loss of inflation
I am hoping this means it was a loose valve
It'll only take you minutes.
.
I'd second that, good for practice and easier at home than the inevitable dark and rainy day when it will fail at the most inconvenient place just after riding through a pile of you know what.I'd still be removing it to check, as you know that it will fail at the worst possible time.
It'll only take you minutes.
.
Dave.