Im talking about plugging a 8 pin male into a 9 pin female. Not a 9 pin male into a 8 pin female.
Which controller kit do i buy?
- Thread starter mxlann
- Start date
Have I got this right then: You've somehow managed to jam an 8-pin connector into a 9-pin socket, it's giving an error code and you're wondering why??
I just realised how dumb i was. I dont have a lot of experience with ebikes. I thought there was a chance it would work since the 8 pin fits in the 9 pin socket without any problems. I thought the extra socket in the 9 pin was for a throttle, which i dont have a connector for. Thank you so much helping me.
There seems to be some confusion here. A motor usually has a 9 pin waterproof male plug on the cable that connects to a 9-pin female connector cable going to the controller.
There are 3 types of cable to connect other items to the controller via another (but different) 8 or 9 pin waterproof female connector on the controller:-
1T2 - An 8 pin male connector at the controller end and and two connectors for the display (usually 5 pin) and a throttle (usually 3 pin) at the other.
1T4 as above but 4 connectors - 2 extra for brake sensors.
1T5 - as above but with a fifth connector for a front light and a 9 pin male connector at the controller end.
You can probably use a 1T4 cable with a controller having a 9 pin female connector (you just won't be able to use the front light) but not a 1T5 with an 8 pin female controller connector.
The only variation to be aware of is that brake connectors can be 2 or 3 pin and male/female sometimes reversed (eg Yose 3 pin).
This is the wiring diag. for KT "waterproof" controllers supplied by PSWPower:-
I have successfully connected 1T4 cables from Yose and TBK to 9-pin KT controllers (as above diag.) without problems, other than making sure the 3-pin brake sensor connectors on the brake levers were the correct male or female orientation.
There are 3 types of cable to connect other items to the controller via another (but different) 8 or 9 pin waterproof female connector on the controller:-
1T2 - An 8 pin male connector at the controller end and and two connectors for the display (usually 5 pin) and a throttle (usually 3 pin) at the other.
1T4 as above but 4 connectors - 2 extra for brake sensors.
1T5 - as above but with a fifth connector for a front light and a 9 pin male connector at the controller end.
You can probably use a 1T4 cable with a controller having a 9 pin female connector (you just won't be able to use the front light) but not a 1T5 with an 8 pin female controller connector.
The only variation to be aware of is that brake connectors can be 2 or 3 pin and male/female sometimes reversed (eg Yose 3 pin).
This is the wiring diag. for KT "waterproof" controllers supplied by PSWPower:-
I have successfully connected 1T4 cables from Yose and TBK to 9-pin KT controllers (as above diag.) without problems, other than making sure the 3-pin brake sensor connectors on the brake levers were the correct male or female orientation.
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If you buy a KT controller from PSW you can because they have a 9 pin connector for the 1T5 cable. KT controllers listed by Topbikekit only have an 8 pin connector so they will only take 1T2 or 1T4 cables.
This is why it is much easier to buy the controller, display, cable, throttle, brake sensors or levers and PAS from one supplier!
Good point! Matching connectors definitely saves time and frustration, and buying all components from one supplier makes everything much easier.
Alright it finally works now, but it only goes 36kmh while the motor should be capable of doing about 50. The magnet count is correct and so is the wheel size. Any idea what might be causing this?
How do you know that the motor should go 50? Did it do that before? If it did, there are three possibilities I can think of:
1. The LCD is showing the wrong speed because you have the wrong settings
2. There's a speed limit set
3. You have a false positive on the connection sequence. That would show higher power consumption than expected and would need sorting because it can blow your controller.
Ive seen people with the same motor go 45-50. The lcd is showing the right speed and theres no speed limit set. I also dont think that theres a false positive since the power consumption is correct.
It's a hub motor, so has an inherent maximum rpm at any given voltage. If the bike was originally supplied as 48V and intended for 25km/h maximum, then unrestricted speed of 36km/h sounds about right.
The motor exists in multiple versions according to Ananda website.
The motor exists in multiple versions according to Ananda website.
Here's a simulated work-out on a random MTB to get an idea of power levels, for example at 45kph from the rider 250W and battery 720W.
An upgrade from 17A to 25A sounds like 916W to 1347W but the controller's rated for 1000W peak and luckily the power will fade as it heats up. As you say 916W should be good for around 48kph (with 250W pedal input), but then 1016W would add just 1.5kph because the needed power increases with speed cubed, if battery voltage allows.
It might be worth double checking the peak and continuous current ratings of the battery as a whole (not scaled up from cell performance). At 25A the battery's wiring and BMS will be making double the heat they were before.
An upgrade from 17A to 25A sounds like 916W to 1347W but the controller's rated for 1000W peak and luckily the power will fade as it heats up. As you say 916W should be good for around 48kph (with 250W pedal input), but then 1016W would add just 1.5kph because the needed power increases with speed cubed, if battery voltage allows.
It might be worth double checking the peak and continuous current ratings of the battery as a whole (not scaled up from cell performance). At 25A the battery's wiring and BMS will be making double the heat they were before.
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