Why would my ebike motor start running when brakes are de-pressed?

[AGS]

It’s not a Lishui, it’s an Ananda. I thought it was Lishui at first because of the display. It’s not easy to test with waterproof connectors. You really have to do it with the controller opened up so you can prod on the right pins. Although if you start prodding on the wrong pins with the wrong multimeter settings it all starts going pear shaped and puffs of smoke start emitting all over the place.

You can ride without brake sensors, but just make sure you stop peddling and keep off the throttle when you are braking.

I don’t have brake sensors on my Greaser and that was a factory built bike. They have started fitting them on new models now but integrated brake sensors for hydraulic brakes weren’t available when mine was built. And I guess they didn’t want to send out a factory built bike with magnets glued to the brake levers. They would have had a nightmare with warranty claims every time the magnets fell off.

 

[beanisboy]

It’s not a Lishui, it’s an Ananda. I thought it was Lishui at first because of the display. It’s not easy to test with waterproof connectors. You really have to do it with the controller opened up so you can prod on the right pins. Although if you start prodding on the wrong pins with the wrong multimeter settings it all starts going pear shaped and puffs of smoke start emitting all over the place.

You can ride without brake sensors, but just make sure you stop peddling and keep off the throttle when you are braking.

I don’t have brake sensors on my Greaser and that was a factory built bike. They have started fitting them on new models now but integrated brake sensors for hydraulic brakes weren’t available when mine was built. And I guess they didn’t want to send out a factory built bike with magnets glued to the brake levers. They would have had a nightmare with warranty claims every time the magnets fell off.

I think this is a good idea, to ride and be careful. It's an £80 quid bike. It goes well, and it's for short trips. So for now, I'll trundle on as is and see how it goes.
Thanks for the help!

 

[AGS]

What I do like about your bike is it was built by a reputable company that is still in business manufacturing your model today. Rather than a fly by night company hoping to make a quick buck by buying a load of second rate bikes and selling them on.

 

[beanisboy]

It seems like a solid bike indeed, and rides well. Considering how much use it looks to have had, it's held up well.
I'll get a chain and cassette on order!

 

[AGS]

It probably deserves it after 4000 miles. Check to see if it is a freewheel or cassette before ordering. I have a feeling it is a freewheel, which are most common on older small hub motors, because they are much cheaper to manufacture. Their website is confusing. The spec sheet says it has a shimano 8 speed cassette and further down it says the motor has a freewheel.

Cassettes slide on and are held in place by a locking ring. Freewheels screw on and they need different tools to remove.

 

[beanisboy]

I'll check, I have the tools - it does look like a cassette but I'll check.
Yeah - 4000miles!!!

 

[Nealh]

It sounds like the brakes wire sequence is wrong or incorrect Reed switch polarity is used in them.
Reed switch operation comes in two flavours open or closed

 

[beanisboy]

It sounds like the brakes wire sequence is wrong or incorrect Reed switch polarity is used in them.
Reed switch operation comes in two flavours open or closed

That's interesting - do you think both brakes could have gone wrong at once?
And is there a fix,...?

 

[AGS]

You can test the reed switches using your multimeter set to ohms and a couple of paper clips slotted into the red brake connector. Pull the lever and if the circuit either opens or closes then the reed switch is activating. That’s one of the things you can do safely without any power connected, so you won’t blow anything up. But they are doing something otherwise the motor wouldn’t run when you activate the brakes. So it really does look like something is wired backwards.

What you don’t know is if someone has been messing about with the wiring inside the controller. Or even if the reed switches have been replaced with ones with the wrong activation, ie normally closed when they should be normally open.

 

[AGS]

That tape on your brake switch cover is suspicious. Maybe take a closer look to see if someone has been fiddling with it. The cover should be easy to remove with a couple of small screws. Top tip, don’t drop the screws on the floor because you will never find them again. VOE.

 

[beanisboy]

You can test the reed switches using your multimeter set to ohms and a couple of paper clips slotted into the red brake connector. Pull the lever and if the circuit either opens or closes then the reed switch is activating. That’s one of the things you can do safely without any power connected, so you won’t blow anything up. But they are doing something otherwise the motor wouldn’t run when you activate the brakes. So it really does look like something is wired backwards.

What you don’t know is if someone has been messing about with the wiring inside the controller. Or even if the reed switches have been replaced with ones with the wrong activation, ie normally closed when they should be normally open.

Thanks, I'll check tomorrow!

 

[AGS]

One thing I have just noticed is they are tektro brake levers and they may be magnetic switches stuck on underneath. That white stuff may be double sided sticky pads. I can’t see clearly from the photographs.

If that is the case then the magnets may be positioned incorrectly on the lever so they operate the wrong way around.

 

[beanisboy]

I've investigated the brakes. Took one apart, and checked it over. All seems very standard and not tampered with. Switches off and on.

I also took apart the throttle. I can't see why that wouldn't work as all looks ok.

Leads me to thinking, seeing as it's all original parts, perhaps the wiring has gone weird somewhere. I've had all the connectors apart and wiggled around. Doesn't change anything.

If I could find the controller box online I'd take a punt at buying a new one, but I can;t find the model at all - nothing comes up.

So maybe I'll leave this annoying brake issue and just ride it. I went 15 miles today no probs.

Great bike, and will be even better once it has a service (a pretty major one!)

 

[Jodel]

If the brakes are depressed, is there anything you could do to cheer them up?

(I'll get my coat .....)

Even if some parts / repairs are required, that looks like a pretty decent machine for only £80 - nice find!

 

[beanisboy]

Thank you all for your help - I finally had time to spruce up the bike.

New chain, cassette, front cog, brake pads, brake and gear cables, headset, and saddle.

Feels like a new bike!

I worked out if I have the front brake connected to the cable, it cuts off and doesn't run on. So that's a work around without getting into electrics.

Bike £80, Parts about £100 - not bad for a functioning ebike!