For my project, I'm now struggling with going for the GSM motor which is cheaper. However, you have source an external controller which gives benefits, but you then have hassle with mounting and sealing it.

If you go for a GSM motor, mounting/hiding the controller is easy, it just gives you a bit more work to do though. I guess with the controller being external, you can run a bit more power through it and not worry so much about it overheating.

I lot of folk think they're stronger and more reliable than the SRAM Dualdrive which is very similar but more flashy. I think a lot folk won't go near the SA brand.. They're just brand snobs. I've got one in my spares which I got to replace a broken SRAM hub. However, soon after buying on eBay I was given a wheel with a SRAM Dualdrive hub, so I took the easy option and never got round to trying the SA hub. I had the DualDrive on my previous trike giving 81 gear combinations with a triple and a 9 speed cassette, which this hub can match, but there was a lot of overlap. However, the range was still massive.

 

I bagged one of those SA hubs. I'll lace it up once it arrives and report back on how it performs.

Also bagged some Marathon Plus Tour tyres.

Then put a bigger or an extra chain ring on the front. Not too expensive and it'd be well worth it my opinion.

Could you fit shorter crank arms?

Dave.

Why would you want to? Cadence would be the same.

Hi

I now run igh on both my bikes one alfine 8 and one nexus 8 inta the power handling capability is not a problem at 250watt but you have to roll off the power to change gear reduce the load

.The easy way is to flick the rear brake to cut power or fit the gear sensor fitting a spring loaded chain tensioner is a must, will be interesting to see how you get on . Below is a link the wheel built with the changer cables nuts washers etc was £203.40 +delivery arrived very quickly very well packed only had to add tube tyre and center lock disk

 

https://www.taylor-wheels.com/bike-wheels/29-inch-bike-wheel/29-inch-rear-wheels/

 

Your way will be like adding overdrive to a turbo car:D

Edited August 2, 20187 yr by peter.c

Took my son out on the tag-a-long today. Awesome. "Faster daddy, FASTER! WHEEEEEEE!" was the reaction.

I've covered about 150 miles on it so far. Range seems to be 40 miles ish which is fine for what I want.

I've just built a new rear wheel with a Sturmey Archer CS-RK3 3-speed cassette hub which should get me -33%/0%/+33% ratio. It was the first time I've ever built a wheel. I went with a 36 spoke, 3-cross lacing pattern using 2mm double butted spokes. It was pretty easy TBH and I'm not sure where all the stuff about it being a black art comes from. You just need patience.

After the success of the rear wheel I built a front one too with the same lacing pattern. Going for strength rather than weight.

 

I'll report back on what I think of the SA hub once I've put some miles on it. First impressions are good but I'm having to use the rear brake as a power cut as I have the gear sensor on my derailleur cable. Wondering if I can run two cables through the one gear sensor.......

Cadence would be the same

Correct, just a thought as it changes gearing.

It was the first time I've ever built a wheel. I went with a 36 spoke, 3-cross lacing pattern using 2mm double butted spokes. It was pretty easy TBH and I'm not sure where all the stuff about it being a black art comes from. You just need patience.

After the success of the rear wheel I built a front one too with the same lacing pattern. Going for strength rather than weight..

If you thought wheel building was easily, you're doing well. However, the black art isn't wheel building per se, it's building one that'll stay true without spokes coming lose or breaking. You won't know how good your wheels are until they've done a fair few miles. Rears take more abuse than fronts unless you're heavy on braking. Sorting out a bad wheel isn't nearly as easy as building one from scratch.

 

What did you use for reference?

 

Wondering if I can run two cables through the one gear sensor.......

Not following what you're trying to achieve here?

The rear hub is a 3-speed hub, I also have the 9-speed cassette. I'm trying to achieve the gear sensor activating with both shifting mechanisms. At the moment it's only on the 9-speed. I can of course just pull a brake lever to achieve the same result but I like the elegance of the gear sensor.

 

For reference I used this: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html

 

Tension is good in all spokes (used a proper meter). I pull it off the bike after 50 miles and check how true it still is.

The rear hub is a 3-speed hub, I also have the 9-speed cassette. I'm trying to achieve the gear sensor activating with both shifting mechanisms. At the moment it's only on the 9-speed. I can of course just pull a brake lever to achieve the same result but I like the elegance of the gear sensor.

I see. You know that hub gears should only be shifted when not pedalling? Makes them ideal for shifting down before for pulling way after stopping and your derailleur gear is too high.