Summary: I rebuilt a scrap front hub motor, now it works fine *but* is running in reverse (so the motor works but the freewheel means the wheel doesn't move)

 

Any advice which wires I need to swap to reverse the direction?

 

The wiring now : is as you'd expect, ( hub halls + phase wires connect to same colour on the controller, yellow/green/blue)

The wires are old style connection blocks (easy to swap around) not waterproof Juliet types..

 

I hoped it would be as simple as swapping the wires for the 2 "outside" hall sensors (keep yellow in the middle, swap blue / green), then also swap matching phase wires - that didn't work.

 

 

Any advice appreciated, is there a simple solution ie: "swap wires from these 2 hall sensors then swap these 2 phase wires... " (and more importantly, which colours?)

 

 

 

How I got here :

The bike came as an elderly non-working 24 volt project that had been vandalised.

I fitted a spare Yose hub ( re-laced using the original rim + spokes), fitted a 36 volt battery + controller I'd been given.

All worked well so the bike was used by visitors, unfortunately one of them turned out to be a bit of an idiot and killed the bike by pulling the wires out (and damaging the hub wiring)

 

Since getting the bike I have stripped and refurb'd the original hub motor, freed off the siezed freewheel, replaced damaged wiring, blown hall sensors, etc.

It was all wired up using the working Yose hub as a pattern, I can now plug either hub into the controller on the bike and the motors spin happily.

 

The bad news is the freewheel on the original hub is the reverse of the freewheel on the Yose hub !

End result, I now need to reverse the motor by swapping wires so it will engage with the freewheel.

A minor thing is the motor will need to be mounted "backwards" with the wire from the axle running up the opposite side to the Yose motor. Not a problem - just unexpected.

 

Background about the bike

https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/kemp-starley-dutch-town-bike-out-of-hibernation.37181/

Summary: I rebuilt a scrap front hub motor, now it works fine *but* is running in reverse (so the motor works but the freewheel means the wheel doesn't move)

 

Any advice which wires I need to swap to reverse the direction?

 

The wiring now : is as you'd expect, ( hub halls + phase wires connect to same colour on the controller, yellow/green/blue)

The wires are old style connection blocks (easy to swap around) not waterproof Juliet types..

 

I hoped it would be as simple as swapping the wires for the 2 "outside" hall sensors (keep yellow in the middle, swap blue / green), then also swap matching phase wires - that didn't work.

 

 

Any advice appreciated, is there a simple solution ie: "swap wires from these 2 hall sensors then swap these 2 phase wires... " (and more importantly, which colours?)

 

 

 

How I got here :

The bike came as an elderly non-working 24 volt project that had been vandalised.

I fitted a spare Yose hub ( re-laced using the original rim + spokes), fitted a 36 volt battery + controller I'd been given.

All worked well so the bike was used by visitors, unfortunately one of them turned out to be a bit of an idiot and killed the bike by pulling the wires out (and damaging the hub wiring)

 

Since getting the bike I have stripped and refurb'd the original hub motor, freed off the siezed freewheel, replaced damaged wiring, blown hall sensors, etc.

It was all wired up using the working Yose hub as a pattern, I can now plug either hub into the controller on the bike and the motors spin happily.

 

The bad news is the freewheel on the original hub is the reverse of the freewheel on the Yose hub !

End result, I now need to reverse the motor by swapping wires so it will engage with the freewheel.

A minor thing is the motor will need to be mounted "backwards" with the wire from the axle running up the opposite side to the Yose motor. Not a problem - just unexpected.

 

Background about the bike

https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/kemp-starley-dutch-town-bike-out-of-hibernation.37181/

It depends on the controller. If the controller has automatic phase angle and hall detection, it can't reverse the direction unless there's a specific setting in the LCD. If it doesn't have automatic phase detection, swap ta pair of Blue and green phase wires ,and yellow and green hall wires.

[mention=3847]saneagle[/mention] swapping the wires worked fine, I.O.U

 

The controller is super basic, no LCD display just 3 LEDs to show the charge in the battery.

 

Next question will be - what type of glue will work to hold the new hall sensors into the hub?

Also (I'm expecting to tie the new wires inside the hub using brown cord) what type of glue to stop the cord coming loose?

I'm in Portugal so choices are limited, superglue for the cords?

My guess is rubber based glue (Bostic etc) will fail once the hub heats up so are best avoided..

Will superglue work to hold the hall sensors in place or will it fail with the heat ?

 

The motor isn't fully assembled yet so I'll clean it up and repaint it before I finally assemble things - a tin of spray paint is already on tomorrows shopping list.

 

Last job will be to strip the failed "new" wheel and use the the rim + spokes to rebuild the the original (now working) motor where they were when I got the bike.

I'm hoping it will result in better torque, the Yose motor was from a 26" wheel and this is a 27" bike..

[mention=3847]saneagle[/mention] swapping the wires worked fine, I.O.U

 

The controller is super basic, no LCD display just 3 LEDs to show the charge in the battery.

 

Next question will be - what type of glue will work to hold the new hall sensors into the hub?

Also (I'm expecting to tie the new wires inside the hub using brown cord) what type of glue to stop the cord coming loose?

I'm in Portugal so choices are limited, superglue for the cords?

My guess is rubber based glue (Bostic etc) will fail once the hub heats up so are best avoided..

Will superglue work to hold the hall sensors in place or will it fail with the heat ?

 

The motor isn't fully assembled yet so I'll clean it up and repaint it before I finally assemble things - a tin of spray paint is already on tomorrows shopping list.

 

Last job will be to strip the failed "new" wheel and use the the rim + spokes to rebuild the the original (now working) motor where they were when I got the bike.

I'm hoping it will result in better torque, the Yose motor was from a 26" wheel and this is a 27" bike..

Hall sensors are normally in slots, so don't need much to hold them. A spot of epoxy or superglue should be fine.