TORQ-Lock - Locking torque arm for ebikes

[Swytch Bike]

useful information for eBike converters
New options for providing torque reaction to the motor axle are now available

If you are looking to combine using a torque arm on your hub motor with increased security against theft, then you can try the TORQ-Lock, recently launched.

The TORQ-Lock immobilizes your motor axle wheel nut, providing security against theft as well as preventing spin-out of your motor wheel.

Suitable for bicycles with M5 threaded eyelets, and 250W power motors. Available in 10mm and 12mm threaded axle sizes

This product is available with a basic locking screw (TORQ-Lock "Lite") for users wanting a deterrent against theft as well torque reaction. Alternatively, there is the TORQ-Lock "Magnum" for increased security against theft.

Useful videos showing you how to fit

The TORQLock Magnum demo video:

 

[robdon]

useful information for eBike converters
New options for providing torque reaction to the motor axle are now available

If you are looking to combine using a torque arm on your hub motor with increased security against theft, then you can try the TORQ-Lock, recently launched.

The TORQ-Lock immobilizes your motor axle wheel nut, providing security against theft as well as preventing spin-out of your motor wheel.

Suitable for bicycles with M5 threaded eyelets, and 250W power motors. Available in 10mm and 12mm threaded axle sizes

This product is available with a basic locking screw (TORQ-Lock "Lite") for users wanting a deterrent against theft as well torque reaction. Alternatively, there is the TORQ-Lock "Magnum" for increased security against theft.

Useful videos showing you how to fit

The TORQLock Magnum demo video:

I have just fitted the Torq- lock lite, very easy and strong and so simple to fit.
ROB

 

[Deleted member 4366]

It's a sort of nice product, but the more I think about it, the more it worries me. My first concern is that it can't be relied on as a torque arm because it doesn't lock the axle, which is the thing that will turn and break your drop-outs. It should; however prevent a face plant by holding the axle in place if the drop-outs do pop. It's a shame because if that did work, we'd all be using a ring spanner and a cable tie as a torque arm, which would mean that you always had your spanner ready for when you need to take the wheel off.

My other minor concern is remembering to bring the key with you every time in case you get a puncture.

The security point is sort of valid, but I'm wondering how many thieves carry a 17mm spanner around with them looking for Ebike motor wheels to steal, which are probably still attached by a wire anyway, and if they cut the wire, they'll have a difficult repair to do - not that they're clever enough to figure that out.

 

[D C]

It seems to me to encourage you to either over tighten or under tighten in order to line up the screw lock and like d8veh, I can't see how it can act as a torque arm, maybe I'm nit picking

Dave

 

[Swytch Bike]

Hi all, thanks for the thoughts and feedback.

The TORQ lock does act as a torque arm by preventing the wheel axle from turning because to do so requires it to tighten itself further into the wheel nut, which it can't if you have tightened it fully ( this only works if fitted on the RHS). Also note we only recommend use for 250W 20Nm motors as it is difficult to tighten the wheel nut sufficiently to react against higher torque motors.

The key thing to consider is that when the right hand wheel nut is immobilised, for the axle to turn in the anti-clockwise direction (looking from the right hand side) ie the direction of the reactive torque on the wheel when you accelerate the motor, the axle will need to tighten itself further into the wheel nut.

Therefore if you have tightened the wheel nut to a torque larger than that of the motor (not very hard for a 250W motor) then the wheel nut can't tighten any further and there will be a torque reaction provided preventing the wheel axle from turning

DC in response to your comment, it is easy enough in our experience to get an extra 60 degrees (which is the max you need as it is a hex nut) of tightening of the wheel nut in order to align with the eyelet.

It is a good point about the need for a key - but that is just a standard sacrifice you make for security. We provide 3x keys and cheap replacements so you can't ever get stuck and unable to remove the wheel.

 

[Ting Wong]

This lock arm does what it says on the tin. It keeps the thief away from your precious motor/wheel, and it prevents your wheel from spinning out by locking the nut in place. Perfect!

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Good luck to you if you want to rely on it. A 250w motor foesn'-t really need a torque arm. If you have a motor more powerful than that, they'll help prevent a face plant by joldin the wheel in place, but I can't see them preventing your drop-outs from snapping (aluminium forks only).