Frozen gears, slipping freewheel

[z0mb13e]

This morning, I walked my bike down to the main road as the road I live on is one big sheet of glossy, icy death. Hopped on the bike, wizzed of down the hill and on trying to get up the next hill I discovered that my chain was slipping and I was stuck in 2nd gear.

Thanks to the cold weather the dérailleur cable is frozen solid in the sleeve and the free-wheel isn't engaging properly (resulting in what felt like a slipped chain and feet slipping off pedals).

This is the first time I've experienced this on a bike due to cold weather, but then thinking about it I wouldn't bother cycling in this kind of weather on anything but my ebike!

Anyone got any tips for keeping bikes running smoothly in freezing conditions?

 

[z0mb13e]

That fact that the gears were frozen solid didn't stop me getting to work thanks to the throttle! I will miss the throttle when the regulations are hamonised...

 

[averhamdave]

I will miss the throttle when the regulations are hamonised...

Why, will it cease working?

 

[Sevenhills]

I will miss the throttle when the regulations are hamonised...

Will the new regs be retrospective, just getting used to my Izip, just need to wait till it gets a bit warmer.

 

[z0mb13e]

From what I understand the regs will not be retroactive.

It would only apply to bikes manufactured after the regs change.

 

[flecc]

Will the new regs be retrospective, just getting used to my Izip, just need to wait till it gets a bit warmer.

The DfT has said that the 1983 regulations are the ones to follow at present, and existing e-bikes can continue to be used after the regulations are changed.

However, they are not lawyers, and I've seen a very different interpretation of the law related to throttle only use recently, derived from the changes that have been implemented by the EU at times.

This indicates that only pre-1999 bikes can have throttle only control indefinitely, the position for bikes made between 1998 and November 9th 2003 is very complicated, and bikes made from November 10th 2003 onwards must not have throttle only control when the new regulations are enforced and shouldn't really have it now. Since EU law takes precedence over British and UK law, this interpretation is definitely ultimately correct.

There's a further complication, this interpretation from me. Most of the current e-bikes capable of throttle control only are illegal now anyway so will remain illegal indefinitely. That's because they are mainly 250 watt rated and this mixes the laws which of course isn't permitted. The throttle only permission is the British 1983 law which specifies 200 watts, 250 watts permission is the EU law.

We are just going to have to wait and see what time brings in the way of enforcement and then if it becomes necessary, argue for a definitive ruling to restrict what the police can and can't do. That will be a job for BEBA no doubt.
.

 

[z0mb13e]

The DfT has said that the 1983 regulations are the ones to follow at present, and existing e-bikes can continue to be used after the regulations are changed.

However, they are not lawyers, and I've seen a very different interpretation of the law related to throttle only use recently, derived from the changes that have been implemented by the EU at times.

This indicates that only pre-1999 bikes can have throttle only control indefinitely, the position for bikes made between 1998 and November 9th 2003 is very complicated, and bikes made from November 10th 2003 onwards must not have throttle only control when the new regulations are enforced and shouldn't really have it now. Since EU law takes precedence over British and UK law, this interpretation is definitely ultimately correct.

There's a further complication, this interpretation from me. Most of the current e-bikes capable of throttle control only are illegal now anyway so will remain illegal indefinitely. That's because they are mainly 250 watt rated and this mixes the laws which of course isn't permitted. The throttle only permission is the British 1983 law which specifies 200 watts, 250 watts permission is the EU law.

We are just going to have to wait and see what time brings in the way of enforcement and then if it becomes necessary, argue for a definitive ruling to restrict what the police can and can't do. That will be a job for BEBA no doubt.
.

So in a nut shell, the law in this regard is 'proper woolly' to use a colloquialism...

Any suggestions as to how to stop my gears freezing and the free-wheel slipping? (I would keep it indoors but that isn't an option) Anything I can think of that would melt ice is either corrosive or a solvent that would wash away lubricant.

 

[flecc]

Any suggestions as to how to stop my gears freezing and the free-wheel slipping? (I would keep it indoors but that isn't an option) Anything I can think of that would melt ice is either corrosive or a solvent that would wash away lubricant.

Difficult one! A de-icer like Servisol Easy-Thaw 190 will do the trick but being very volatile (as well as highly inflammable) it will flush away lubricant. WD40 will be less damaging but also less effective unless the bike is brought up to temperature before treatment.

I used to have a sump heater rather like this cold frame heater and it was very safe. If you use one of these under or just by the bike with a bike cover over it to trap the heat, the warmth will be sufficient to prevent frost and a small tankful of paraffin will last for weeks.

If you haven't got a bike cover you could probably improvise, but there are plenty on the market. Make sure whatever you use leaves a gap below for air to circulate for the heater.
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[z0mb13e]

Well I'm pleased to say that it hasn't been cold enough or wet enough for my gears to freeze recently. However since the gears started slipping, they have been slipping every day since.

Particularly nasty when trying to pull away at a junction...

Am I right in thinking that the teeth on the inside of the free-wheel or the ratchets (or pawl?) have rounded off somewhere?

 

[flecc]

Am I right in thinking that the teeth on the inside of the free-wheel or the ratchets (or pawl?) have rounded off somewhere?

Could be damaged in some way like that. As I've often observed in here, these multi-sprocket freewheels are nowhere near as strong as the cassette system that normal derailleur bikes use. Cheaply replaced, but it does mean disconnecting the motor wiring and I think the connector removal on yours too.

I'd try to get the bike up to temperature a bit first since it could be just sticking pawls in the current near freezing conditions. Once freed up if that's the cause, you probably wouldn't get a recurrence once a bit more wear occurred.
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[z0mb13e]

I may have been a bit hasty in blaming the freewheel. I haven't totally ruled it out as I haven't had the time to take the wheel of and check, but today the Whisper was almost unrideable. The chain was slipping constantly and I am unable to add all but the lightest of input from the pedals.

I noticed that the chain was wandering on the chain ring so had a look and the teeth are quite rounded. This may have happend quite rapidly since the slipping started. The chain isn't sitting square on the chain ring, it is leaning over to one side and when the slipping occurs, the chain seems to return to square and then starts wandering again, all within a revolution of the crank. I turned the chain ring around so the square edge of the teeth are gripping the chain and all seemed well for the first few meters but then the chain started slipping again. The derailuer tensioner is at its tightest.

So if the chain is slipping on the chain ring, any suggestions as to what would cause this? Has the chain stretched? Is the chain wheel alignment out? (I replaced the bottom bracket a few hundred miles ago) Should I replace the whole drive train? (Freewheel, chain, chain ring).

Looks like I will be relying on the Cyclamatic for the time being while I tear down and rebuild the Whisper chain drive. Just as well I got the spare bike really

 

[flecc]

Should I replace the whole drive train? (Freewheel, chain, chain ring).

Usually once wear sets in the chainring is the only part than can give further service in many cases, but since yours has clearly had it, the whole lot is probably a complete answer.
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[z0mb13e]

I replaced the whole drive train yesterday and took the Whisper into work today for the first time in weeks, and it was a joy to ride and everything worked perfectly.

On closer inspection the freewheel had quite a few teeth that were considerably shorter than the new one. The teeth on the chain ring were badly worn in one direction and the chain wasn't brilliant either.

Anyway, all sorted now.