Slipping chain

[Trevor Holloway]

All three gears on the chain ring are riveted together and fixed to the crank arm, getting a bit perplexed at the moment.

 

[Streethawk]

Riveted! That's a bit permanent and would suggest a very poor quality crankset. Unfortunately, changing the whole thing isnt cheap, but i'd want a Shimano crankset on there if they're riveted together! At least Shimano stuff is a known quantity.

Funny, i have noticed excessive chainring wear on my Aurora, its only done 300 miles and some of the teeth in the big ring have worn to sharp points already. Some of these Chinese components appear to be made of the most unsuitable materials possible!

 

[Trevor Holloway]

I was thinking of removing the smallest ring to fit the pedal sensor on the right side but was put off by the rivets so it ended up on the left !

 

[Streethawk]

Normally the chainrings are held on with specific chainring bolts like these:

 

[z0mb13e]

Sounds like a bit of a headache then - sorry, I assumed you had a single front chain ring held on with those bolts that Streethawk just posted about. It would then have been an easy test, flipping the chain ring.

If you have 3 chain rings does it slip equally on all 3?

 

[Trevor Holloway]

Does not seem to make much difference which front ring its on - however not been able to ride it far as it was so distracting I turned round and put it back indoors.

 

[tillson]

Must admit I thought the same ie a mismatch between chain and sprockets but got them both from Halfords where you do not get a choice !
The chain fits correctly over the front rings.

It appears that all bike chain is of the same pitch.

Taken from Wikipedia:

The chain in use on modern bicycles has a 1/2" pitch, which is ANSI standard #40, where the 4 indicates the pitch of the chain in eighths of an inch, and metric #8, where the 8 indicates the pitch in sixteenths of an inch.

It says the following about chain width:

Chain comes in either 3/32", 1/8", 5/32" or 3/16" roller widths: 5/32" is used on cargo bikes and trikes, 1/8" with the common low cost coaster (back pedal brake) bike, hub and fixed gearing and on track bicycles, and 3/32" with the derailleur gears most commonly fitted on racing, touring and mountain bikes.
The Wikibook, "Bicycle Maintenance and Repair", explains that the difference between derailleur chains commonly labelled 8-speed, 9-speed, and 10-speed is in its external width (all are 3/32" chains).

Are you sure that you have bought the correct width?

 

[Streethawk]

A too wide chain would jump a lot, it'd keep hitting the ramps on the sprocket next to the one is should be in.

 

[Trevor Holloway]

These are what I bought :
Halfords | Taya Anti Rust Bike Chain - 5, 6, and 7 Speed
and
Halfords | Halfords 6 Speed Bike Freewheel

It does seem to be riding the ramps but not had a chance to measure up, I would have thought the chain and sprockets would have been suitable together though.

 

[Streethawk]

Should be compatible then. Personally, i always buy Shimano or SRAM for drivetrain components (Shimano for 'rings and cassettes/freewheels and SRAM for chains usually), the smaller brands or unbranded stuff can often perform poorly, or wear out very fast.

 

[flecc]

Should be compatible then. Personally, i always buy Shimano or SRAM for drivetrain components (Shimano for 'rings and cassettes/freewheels and SRAM for chains usually), the smaller brands or unbranded stuff can often perform poorly, or wear out very fast.

Ditto, some cheaper chains have rivet ends that can catch on sprocket ramps, made worse sometimes by poor profiling of the outer chain plates.

Have a look at this Shimano chain and see how smooth and flat the rivet ends are, and the pressed shaping of the side plates which tends to recess the rivet ends.
.

 

[Trevor Holloway]

OK - I should have checked the prices at Halfords and then bought real components from the local bike shop via the internet at the same price !

I will admit the chain was an impulse buy.