Recent content by Blunderbuss

Here is a shout out for Tannus Armour for off road riding. I used to get regular punctures from hawthorn needles, my record was three on one ride ☹, so I went to tubeless and that reduced things but not eliminated it. I then got two punctures from exposed sharp flints (baked into the hard clay...

When I saw the conversion that peter.c had done on the zobop I was very smitten, and as I was going to do an full suspension bike next that made my mind up. So a few months down the line I am at stage that makes me feel it was the right thing to do – I love it . All the mechanics are done and I...

No offence mean't a mistake, for which i apologise - but i am no boy either!

I have done a quick mock up and looking at the layout the nickel strips will be a different length - is that bad thing?; a to g and c to e = 45mm b to h and d to f = 30mm If so as another option could i not use a bit of nickel sheet/foil that would cover the whole of the eight batteries in...

I have just spent 30 mins giving the copper strips a salt and vinegar bath to clean them up - i will use some old cells and do a test build of #5 at the weekend.

I like the H strip as it makes things very easy, and if it is double stacked it increases the capacity anyway. I can always do the second layer in the opposite (180 degree) direction so it forms multiple paths. Or if i go the copper way i have a bag full of these from a building job (12mm wide...

Its for a BBS02 750w 48v using 10A cells (https://eu.nkon.nl/rechargeable/18650-size/lg-inr18650m36-3600mah-10a.html), I would have preferred a 15a cell but this job is prioritising distance over power. Every good job starts with a jig so i am up for this :) I can double up the Nickel X to...

That makes sense, I have some of that H strip left over from a previous job and 1.5mm twin and earth has a 20a rating which would be fine (and it is insulated). One thought i have also had is about grouping the batteries in squares of 4 (red squares) and then joining them (blue dotted lines)...

I have got a tight space to fit a 13S4P into and have been messing around with layouts for a while and i think this is my best option. I have two thoughts on connecting S11 to S12, one is to put an extra thick layer of insulation over the ends of the cells in S10 and S9 so i can lay nickle strip...

Update and conclusion. I checked with an alignment tool and it was 22mm off when measured 180 degrees apart (top and bottom) and 5mm off left to right , so i straightened the hanger so it was level all round and it did not improve the indexing on the Altus. I then changed to a Deore and it...

I took out and cleaned/oiled the inner wire as i though that could well be the issue as it is problem indexing both ways and any form of snagging would cause that, but no. I have also just "popped" the old 11/32 back on and it indexed fine so I could just be going beyond the design capability of...

I got time to try without the extender to see, but in my setup the idler gear doesn't clear the 40 tooth - although it did work better on 4,5 and 6!! I have the alignment tool on order so that is the next thing (thanks Charliefox), but as it has problems indexing in both directions i'm not...

I don't think the chain line is an issue because it is no different from how the bike is sold from Halfords, (whilst the diameter of the gears has changed the location has not) - but the extender could be a very different issue, because it was in the box I just fitted it!!! It is supposed to...

Yes it is a 9 gear, the front 32 is the middle so across the back 11 to 40 it produces the least bad alignment (for gears 4,5,6 it is almost straight in line), so i am hoping of the options i have it should not be any worse than the bikes original setup. The bent mech is certainly a possibility...

:eek: a more thorough check has just found itself at number one on the list! Was that as a result of an impact?