Woosh Bike 2015.

[pedelecvirgin]

Hi all not been on the forum for many years, glad to be back. As per i have a bit of a problem. I have the ebike pictured (i hope) bought from Woosh in 2015 i think.
Have not used it for a while. Recharged battery it had been in my shed appear to have a good battery will post voltages later. The lcd controller had somwhow got broken, so put one on from another woosh bike cant remember the name but bought before this one. The lcd is giving me the dreaded error 30. Having looked at the threads it appears there is a set process to go through which i will try.
My question is could i try any NEW lcd display, or does it have to be specific for this bike? Was wondering as this is one of the remedies mentioned.

Also anybody had a folding ebike die after going over a large pothole. My Carera ecity folding bike bike died, battery dead, have spare battery but still no joy swirching on.

Thanks

Peter

 

[saneagle]

It might be an idea to show us what control panels you used.

No damage can occur to the electrics of an ebike when you go over a pothole unless the motor connector comes loose enough to make the motor malfunction, and you carried on in the hope that it would go away.

You need to get a multimeter and start testing. When checking whether the motor will work, always disconnect all unessential connectors, like PAS (if you have a throttle), lights and brakes:

1. Measure the voltage at controller's battery connector. Obviously should be battery voltage. 36v - 42v for a 36v battery would be an acceptable range, but if you've fully charged the battery and it's less than 41v, it needs some sorting.
2. Measure the voltage on the 5v rail. You can measure that between any ground (black) and any of the reds going to throttle, PAS or motor halls. It should be around 5v.
3. Check throttle signal wire voltage on it's connector while connected. it's the wire that's not red or black on the throttle connector. Should give about 1v to 4v when you twist the throttle. If there's more than one wire, your meter will find it. It's the one that's between 1v and 4v, assuming that it works.
4. Check that the pedal assist sensor is pulsing. Measure the PAS signal wire while turning the pedals slowly. Should pulse 5v on and off every time a magnet passes the sensor. The signal wire is the one that's not red or black.
5. Check the motor hall signal wires (blue green and yellow) on the motor connector at the controller. They should each pulse with 5v going on and off as you rotate the wheel BACKWARDS.
6. Mosfet test. Disconnect the motor cable and battery from the controller. Measure the resistance (200k scale) between the red battery connection and each of the three phase wire connections, then repeat with the black battery wire. Each set of 3 readings should be the same as each other and in the range 7K -24K. Though can be higher as long as they're all the same. Due to the capacitor across the battery wire, you can get a constantantly changing measurement while it charges. In that case, try swapping your probes round. Even though can be a moving result, the only important thing is that all three move in a similar way.

If your bike passes all those tests, it should work, so then you can look at any settings or other logical causes, like stuck brake switches, PAS installed backwards.

 

[pedelecvirgin]

Wow, will take me some working out but will have a go and try and get the results sorted.

 

[Woosh]

your bike looks like a Woosh Santana2.

The LCD is King Meter J-LCD.
Controller is Lishui in the controller box, just in front of the battery.
PAS is standard dual Hall, throttle with on/off switch1-4 Julet trunk cable.
Error 30 is communication error, the 5V is down. The possible causes are:
- damaged Julet cable
- Damaged PAS
- Damaged throttle
- Damaged speed sensor
- Damaged LCD
- Damaged controller

You should get in touch with support@wooshbikes.co.uk - Andy can help you with any part you may need.
If you want to fault find yourself, you need to pull the controller out of the controller box, disconnect the throttle, speed sensor and PAS. Press and hold the - button on the LCD to see if the motor spins up OK and error 30 is gone then reconnect throttle, speed sensor and PAS back, one at a time, until the error returns. You then know which part needs replacing.

 

[pedelecvirgin]

Hmmm thanks. Wouldnt you just know it the key is absent, so struggling to remove the battery at this present time will keep you updated.

 

[Woosh]

If you have lost the keys then you would need a locksmiths help. Ask Andy.

 

[pedelecvirgin]

I have emailed Andy many times over the years and he has helped me quite a lot in the past. Am just working up to taking my Kruger to see if he can do anything with it. Its a long old run from Derby to Southend though.
The trouble with being a bit older is that fingers and hands dont do quite as much as they used to now.
The lcd controller on the Kruger is a King Meter KM529.is it possibe to put this lcd on the santana as a test?
Cheers all

 

[Woosh]

You can try. They may not be programmed with the same signalling protocol so may not help. You won't kill anything doing that though.

 

[pedelecvirgin]

Well it all powered on no error message. Was able to ride for about 100 yds, then the display went off. It powered whilst pedalling and on throttle.
Then the display went off.
There are 2 battery indicators on the meter as per new photograph.
Are they both for the main battery?
I cannot see if there is a battery in the King Meter.
As i cant get the battery out of the bike at the moment is there any other way to test the battery?
Sorry for so many questions.

Peter

 

[Woosh]

It's best having a word with Andy. I am in France at the moment.

 

[Nealh]

When the power shuts down like that, it indicates obviously no power supply or bad power supply connection. If the battery is 2015 then likely it is very poorly and has aweak bad cell group.

 

[pedelecvirgin]

Yeah i have given the battery several charges, dont know if smaller blobs increase it or not but things are going pretty well. The display now stays on,have done 1.5 miles in one go so hopefully all will be good.
Cant remember do you charge the battery with it witched on or off?

Cheers all.

 

[Woosh]

The battery can be left on or off when charging. The LCD will switch itself off in about 10 minutes when inactive. Charge until the led on the charger goes green plus about 1 hour for self balancing then unplug the charger.

 

[saneagle]

Cant remember do you charge the battery with it witched on or off?

Witched on always works better, but to do that you have be aware of a couple of problems: King cresters are now protected, so you can't touch them; however, it still works with the eyes from common knewts if you use two eyes instead of one. You can get the dog's tongue from a vet if you bribe them with a few quid, but you're always going to be stuck on the bat's wool because they're also protected. Some get struck by cars, so you might get lucky if you advertise on Facebook, otherwise wind farms are a good place to harvest a them.

 

[pedelecvirgin]

Many thanks. Apologies for lapsing into my dark side. Many of your suggestions are of course old hat to our kind.
However beware of vets, substandard produce has been known and can adversely affect the final effect you are attempting to create.

 

[Nealh]

Often any switch may be a BMS switch so the BMS needs to be on to charge correctly.
The charging in small dribs /drabs may help with balancing the cells is they are out of balance.

 

[pedelecvirgin]

So after much, experimenting (limited due to weather) the battery gave up the ghost.
Saneagles comprehensive diagnostic list prompted me to take a look at the controller and wiring.
I removed the controller and like a fart didnt take pictures. So will have to try and remeber the connections.
However the first thing i noticed was that the yellow motor wire appeared to be burnt the sleeving was blown and metal looked sooted. Would this be an indication of the motor or the controller being faulty or other?
I believe Woosh (Trade Member) said it was a Lishiu controller. Are these a standard item which can fit any bike provided the volts and amps are the same? Presumably the motor wires are tested as they come out of the controller?
Is it safe to connect power to get the readings from the controller?
If it is the notor how do i test that.
Sorry to have so little experience. But when they are working who cares how they do?

Peter

 

[Woosh]

However the first thing i noticed was that the yellow motor wire appeared to be burnt the sleeving was blown and metal looked sooted. Would this be an indication of the motor or the controller being faulty or other?

unlikely. Your motor was working recently, so the connections were good until then. The burnt sleeve needs replacing you can ask Andy@wooshbikes.co.uk to send you one, it costs about 5 pence each.
You need a working battery first.

 

[saneagle]

So after much, experimenting (limited due to weather) the battery gave up the ghost.
Saneagles comprehensive diagnostic list prompted me to take a look at the controller and wiring.
I removed the controller and like a fart didnt take pictures. So will have to try and remeber the connections.
However the first thing i noticed was that the yellow motor wire appeared to be burnt the sleeving was blown and metal looked sooted. Would this be an indication of the motor or the controller being faulty or other?
I believe Woosh (Trade Member) said it was a Lishiu controller. Are these a standard item which can fit any bike provided the volts and amps are the same? Presumably the motor wires are tested as they come out of the controller?
Is it safe to connect power to get the readings from the controller?
If it is the notor how do i test that.
Sorry to have so little experience. But when they are working who cares how they do?

Peter

Burnt motor connectors like yours are very common and can have various causes:
1. The connector wasn't tight enough. It's very easy to stretch the barrel during connection and it's also possible that the bullet wasn't in properly. Either of those cause the connector to heat up during use.
2. Going too slow up a hill with the motor at full power causes high power to go through the motor wires
3. When the connector near the motor isn't in far enough, a hall signal or phase wire connection is lost and the controller loses sync with the motor and makes that characteristic rasping sound. Any attempt to give power to the motor while itlike that causes massive current to flow down the phase wires which can do all sorts of damage, and the first thing to melt is those conne tors.
4. Anything else that stops the motor from turning at a reasonable speed while it's getting full power will overheat those wires and connectors.

It looks like only one connector melted, so it probably wasn't tight enough and no damage is done other than what you can see. I'd cut the connectors off and solder the wires together, then insulate with two layers of heatshrink. You don't need connectors there if you have one by the motor. They just cause trouble.

The only question now is whether there's consequential damage to the controller, as you tried to ride it several times with that fault. First, test everything by making a good connection between the two yellow wires. Ifit doesn't work, you have to test the mosfets and battery like I described above.

 

[Woosh]

If I remember correctly, the santana2's motor is hall-less. The same Lishui controller will run with or without Hall sensors.