Argos E-plus Problem

saneagle

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My aprentice fell off his bike at low speed. Afterwards, his bike became intermittent then stopped working. The zero LED is blinking. IIRC, someone else had that error code, I found the manual, but the zero LED blinking was not included in the list. Can anybody remember the thread or the solution? It took ages to find the manual last time. I think I linked it in that other thread mentioned above.

The setup is pretty straight forward. The controller is in the battery base. It only has the 5-way block connector for the LED panel, two block connectors for the brakes and one for the PAS. The connectors sit in the bottom of the downtube. I disconnected the brakes and PAS, but the LED is still blinking. Who wants to guess at the cause? There are no signs of damage anywhere. I visually checked all the cables. And before anybody feels tempted, the motor connector is all the way to the line.

This is the LED panel. Note that it's the version with 4 LEDs in the top edge, not 5. It also has a long cable with the block connector.

 

saneagle

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After a lot of research, I found out that it's a King Meter T319. I have a spare 24v one off a folder. When I check the markings on the back, they have the wheel size in the code, so I guess that the speed limit is controlled by this device, which is a real problem. I found an Aliexpress seller, who has them for £52, and they say that you have to give them the bike details so that they can customise the settings. Sheiße!

It's looking like I'm going to have to do a bodge. Maybe it'll work with a King Meter LCD. I'm guessing that it's a Santrol controller because that's what all the other Argos bikes have.
 

Sparksandbangs

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Jan 16, 2025
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As far as I am aware there are 2 Kingmeter protocols. If it is KM5S then it would be worth a try with another display. I would have thought you have a selection of old displays in a shoebox somewhere.
 

saneagle

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As far as I am aware there are 2 Kingmeter protocols. If it is KM5S then it would be worth a try with another display. I would have thought you have a selection of old displays in a shoebox somewhere.
I think I have a couple of old KM displays. Maybe a C500 and C600 or something like that. I had rats get in my shed and they pissed over everything, so I'm not sure whether they still work. That's my task for Monday, assuming I finish the 24v folder I'm converting to dual voltage 24v/36v, which has been an absolute nightmare - probably the most frustrating and time-consuming job I've ever done on an ebike.
 

saneagle

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Swap over to KT controller and display ?
It's not my bike now, and I'm not sure the guy wants to pay for anything like that. It'll be similar to the 20" folder I'm swapping over to KT, which is a nightmare. I don't really fancy going through all that again. 4 hours to get the BB off so that I can change the incompatible pedal sensor.
 

Waspy

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Sep 8, 2012
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After a lot of research, I found out that it's a King Meter T319. I have a spare 24v one off a folder. When I check the markings on the back, they have the wheel size in the code, so I guess that the speed limit is controlled by this device, which is a real problem. I found an Aliexpress seller, who has them for £52, and they say that you have to give them the bike details so that they can customise the settings. Sheiße!

It's looking like I'm going to have to do a bodge. Maybe it'll work with a King Meter LCD. I'm guessing that it's a Santrol controller because that's what all the other Argos bikes have.
After your first post, I had a quick Google and found that indeed it is a KM T319, but I thought you would have known that and a numpty like me knows his place, so I didn't mention it. Some have the 4 lights labelled zero to 4, on some the zero is labelled 'Eco'.

I found several manuals on-line, and while they give scenarios for every other combination of flashing lights, none mention a flashing zero .

They have them on Amazon for £14.99, but with a Julet connecter.

In the description it says:

Compatibility: This e-bike display utilizes the 02OMD communication protocol and must be paired with a compatible 02OMD controller for proper functionality.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Electric-Controller-Connector-Scooters-Handlebar/dp/B0F38BD76C/ref=asc_df_B0F38BD76C?mcid=342c2a0bec5c36d2990987e8c79ac1f8&hvocijid=77623945542844499-B0F38BD76C-&hvexpln=74&tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=696285193871&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=77623945542844499&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9198459&hvtargid=pla-2281435176898&psc=1&gad_source=1
 

Waspy

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Sep 8, 2012
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It's not my bike now, and I'm not sure the guy wants to pay for anything like that. It'll be similar to the 20" folder I'm swapping over to KT, which is a nightmare. I don't really fancy going through all that again. 4 hours to get the BB off so that I can change the incompatible pedal sensor.
I have all these bits from my Yosepower kit, most of which I won't be using because I'm going KT.

You're welcome to the controller, LCD and PAS etc. if you want them.

.


 

saneagle

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I have all these bits from my Yosepower kit, most of which I won't be using because I'm going KT.

You're welcome to the controller, LCD and PAS etc. if you want them.

.


Thanks, I might take you up on that offer. Hold on for now while I do some tests.

The problem I had is that there are at least 4 versions of that display, and three of them are almost identical in appearance. The differences are on the back, which they rarely show in the listings. The KM319 is the only one with the wheel size written on the back. The Amazon one you linked to is the G20, which is a generic LED display. Many suppliers wrongly list their items and manuals. I still haven't found a proper manual for the KM319.
 

saneagle

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Between the rain showers, I managed a bit more investigation.

The LED display doesn't show the error when I power it off the bike on its own using a lab power supply.
When it's connected to just the controller and battery it does have the error. Logic therefore says that the problem is with the controller, which is integrated into the battery base. Unfortunately, my apprentice didn't think to bring the key when he brought the bike, so I can't investigate further.
 

saneagle

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I managed to unlock the battery with my jiggler keys, which was very easy once I tried it in the correct direction and the correct side of the lock with the tumblers. That's 4 possibilities, and the correct one was the 4th one I tried, of course.

Anyway, I've open the controller compartment, and I get the internal LED blinking 6 times, which means over-current - logically blown MOSFET/s.

I measured the resistance between the three phase wire pins in the motor connector to the black battery wire. Two were 10k, one was 1 ohm. I measured the resistance from the phase wires to the positive. All three were a dead short. I therefore pronounce that the controller is shagged. It's potted in rubber, so not easy to repair.

64173
 

saneagle

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What would you do? Options are:
Equivalent battery base controller from KT (unpotted) and other stuff £90.

Aluminium box KT controller and stuff £70 plus £5 for bag.

Cheap Brainpower type controller and LCD plus PAS from Aliexpress £25

Yose controller and LCD kit from Waspy £unknown.
 

Sparksandbangs

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Jan 16, 2025
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I'd be tempted with option 1 to keep the bike looking neat also my mind says there is a fair chance with a swapping the display over and a bit of rewiring everything else on the bike might still work.

I think that you will prefer option 2 as it wouldn't have the moulded plugs and you like a controller in a bag.

Option 3 and 4 would be cheaper but probably more work. Also I think fitting a speed based controller will irritate you. :)
 

Nealh

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One is surprised options 3 & 4 are even on your list , given they are speed controllers and like me you have a dislike for them.
 

saneagle

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One is surprised options 3 & 4 are even on your list , given they are speed controllers and like me you have a dislike for them.
It's not my bike and it's not me paying for the repair. There's a big difference between £25 and £90 for a 17 yo apprentice. Also, the lowish torque and size of the wheels make this bike just about tolerable with speed control.

The decision is made. I'm going for option 4, thanks to Waspy's kind offer. Also, I'm hoping that I don't have all that trouble with PAS incompatibility and recalcitrant BB that I had on the last one., which aged me about 10 years in three days.
 

Sparksandbangs

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Would be interested to know if it is a Lishui or JYT controller.
 

Sparksandbangs

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Should have read that. The white label gives it away as well.
 

saneagle

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Oct 10, 2010
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Well, could it get any worse? The answer is yes.

Preparing for the new stuff, I discover that it's a sensorless motor with 6-pin connector. That's after Waspy sent his stuff for sensored motors. I've had to cut the motor lead off the old controller and I'll solder it to the new one. Options are severely limited now. I've chosen a dual-mode controller from Aliexpress. actually, it's three modes. What do you reckon the third mode is? We have sensored, sensorless and what - virtual sensors? I couldn't find any decent cheap ones on Amazon or Ebay, which surprised me, as I've always been able to find them for other people. Let's hope it works! £31.59 inc LCD, free throttle and shipping. 17A with S866 LCD SM connectors:

 
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