Hello, new here. Bought a MF Electric Avenue (2021) second hand & it doesn't seem to take a charge, light comes on within the charger, has anyone had any dealings with 1 of these as don't want to but a battery if i don't need to. i've got in touch with MF for a manual & they won't entertain me as i'm not the original purchaser!
Muddy Fox Electric Avenue issue
- Thread starter n101
- Start date
Do you have access to a multi-meter to take voltage readings from the battery?
If 0v output #1 check its switched on.., #2 there may be a fuse blown internal to the pack?
How long did you try charging it for?
Try posting pics of the bike/battery and connections. google suggests a couple of configs with a built in and or bolt on battery pack??
How old is the battery pack?
For a manual google for the display make/model, as this is the User interface to any/all inputs to the control system.. Tho muddy fox may have replaced the generic system to a) comply with local regs and b) f*ck with you..
If 0v output #1 check its switched on.., #2 there may be a fuse blown internal to the pack?
How long did you try charging it for?
Try posting pics of the bike/battery and connections. google suggests a couple of configs with a built in and or bolt on battery pack??
How old is the battery pack?
For a manual google for the display make/model, as this is the User interface to any/all inputs to the control system.. Tho muddy fox may have replaced the generic system to a) comply with local regs and b) f*ck with you..
First question. What does the little light on the charger do ? As in is it red or green, is it steady, or blinking.
Thought I'd ask, before the massiv have you taking it apart
On one of my chargers the light is red when the charger is switched on, remains red when i plug the charger into the battery, and stays a steady red light until it turns to green 5 or 6 hours later.
Theres no blinking light when it is working to let you know it is actually working.
Im not sure if other chargers feature a blinking 'working' light, I imagine though some might.
If yours isn't, it might actually be still doing something
Thought I'd ask, before the massiv have you taking it apart
On one of my chargers the light is red when the charger is switched on, remains red when i plug the charger into the battery, and stays a steady red light until it turns to green 5 or 6 hours later.
Theres no blinking light when it is working to let you know it is actually working.
Im not sure if other chargers feature a blinking 'working' light, I imagine though some might.
If yours isn't, it might actually be still doing something
Adding to Andy's comment above. Our two chargers for 'standard' batteries are similar to Andy's but a little different. Green when switched on and not connected, go red when connected and charging, and stay red till charge is complete when they revert to green. No blinking.
Our Bosch charger has no light, but there are lights on the battery.
During charge some stay on, next one flashing, and rest off; this indicates how charged it is.
By the time it is nearly fully charged the 'top' light is flashing and the remainder on.
When fully charged, all lights go out.
Our Bosch charger has no light, but there are lights on the battery.
During charge some stay on, next one flashing, and rest off; this indicates how charged it is.
By the time it is nearly fully charged the 'top' light is flashing and the remainder on.
When fully charged, all lights go out.
If you can prove to MF you bought the bike from the registered owner or from say from an Auction House and have receipts they should recognise you as the legal owner and help you .
If the light stays green when you plug it into the battery, it's probably not making a connection to the battery internals. Reasons in order of likelihood:
1. Charge fuse in the battery blown
2. Charger cable damage
3. Damage to the charge socket from arcing when you plug the charger in and it's not switched on.
4. Battery cell-pack issues. The management system checks that and won't allow problems if it detects a problem.
5. Management system faulty.
6. Battery internal wiring fault - wire detached or become unsoldered.
Test 1 - measure the voltage on the charger jack when it's switched on.
Test 2 - measure the voltage on the battery's charger socket. If you have a 5.1 mm jack-type socket, you have to be very careful not to short the blade to the pin when you insert your probes. It's better to cut a jack off an old charger and spread the wires so they can't touch, then insert it and measure the voltage on the wires.
One of those two tests will indicate what you have to do next, so let us know the results.
1. Charge fuse in the battery blown
2. Charger cable damage
3. Damage to the charge socket from arcing when you plug the charger in and it's not switched on.
4. Battery cell-pack issues. The management system checks that and won't allow problems if it detects a problem.
5. Management system faulty.
6. Battery internal wiring fault - wire detached or become unsoldered.
Test 1 - measure the voltage on the charger jack when it's switched on.
Test 2 - measure the voltage on the battery's charger socket. If you have a 5.1 mm jack-type socket, you have to be very careful not to short the blade to the pin when you insert your probes. It's better to cut a jack off an old charger and spread the wires so they can't touch, then insert it and measure the voltage on the wires.
One of those two tests will indicate what you have to do next, so let us know the results.
To be ultra safe screw the wire tails of a cut of 5.5mm jack if used (quite a common charge interface) into a piece of house hold electrical connector strip. Take a probe voltage reading via the screw heads.
Typically 1, or 4 are most likely but not in any typical order. The four others are possible
What ever the issue, one will need to give an answer to the two tests asked for in #8.
Typically 1, or 4 are most likely but not in any typical order. The four others are possible
What ever the issue, one will need to give an answer to the two tests asked for in #8.
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I’d check a couple of easy things before buying a new battery. Sometimes the charger shows the light but isn’t actually charging, so if you know someone with a multimeter or another charger, that’s worth testing. Also make sure the battery connections are clean and tight.
If the battery has been sitting flat for a long time, it might just need a reset or a proper charge from an e-bike shop. A local bike shop should be able to test whether it’s the charger or the battery so you don’t waste money replacing the wrong part.
If the battery has been sitting flat for a long time, it might just need a reset or a proper charge from an e-bike shop. A local bike shop should be able to test whether it’s the charger or the battery so you don’t waste money replacing the wrong part.
Most of the time a solid green light means either fully charged so check output with a meter or a BMS not switching on due to a severe balance issue (a low cell group). The latter one can only check by opening the battery and taking the 10 separate cell readings via the BMS multi wire jst connection.
If the output voltage is a silly reading like 23 -30v then it tells you the BMS hasn't switched on so often a low cell group.
If one see's 0v then internal/output fuse may have blown or a bad connection on the output side. A lot of batteries now have the output blade fuse behind a grommet for easy access, some may also have a charge fuse but they tend to be rare.
Depending on what result one gets, one may have to open the battery to investigate.
If the output voltage is a silly reading like 23 -30v then it tells you the BMS hasn't switched on so often a low cell group.
If one see's 0v then internal/output fuse may have blown or a bad connection on the output side. A lot of batteries now have the output blade fuse behind a grommet for easy access, some may also have a charge fuse but they tend to be rare.
Depending on what result one gets, one may have to open the battery to investigate.
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