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Unless a battery is fitted to the top tube (restricting step through) then it'll have to be a rack battery. However said rack would probably mount further forward than your existing. There are some frame batteries that mount from the side, so may allow fitting between the frame tubes. Could...

Any kit, bought as such, will be plug and play, so you can put the soldering iron away. That bike should be a breeze to convert and, with a rear hub motor, you'll get a new back wheel. However, I think your budget is way shy, a decent kit will be more in the 5-600 (inc. battery) region. There...

I would recomend a geared rear hub. Front hubs can be a bit skittish on wet/loose surfaces and steering compromised in low speed manouvering. Nothing a regular cyclist can't handle, but with a child on board....... Mid drives, because they give power through tha chain/gearset, are a bit more...

Jeez - I ride mine ;)

Yay ! One up for garden shed maintenance, it's so very rewarding isn't it ?:cool:

RANT ALERT! A year ago we bought a low mileage, two previous owners vivaro combi. It has a wheel chair ramp fitted so is ideal for putting our bikes in for away rides.:) It's a 2012 and only had 29,600 miles on it - so a bargin as the dealer had taken it in part ex and couldn't shift it. The...

I'm guessing that what your son needs is a bike with a pas system. Torque sensing systems (which I think the vengence is) rely on sensing rider effort to give assist. They then multiply this sensed effort by a factor determined by what power setting is selected. With a pas system the rider...

Yes, that's what he means. It does mean that, once you've got the wheel in, it is gripped tightly by the frame. This makes getting it in and out (for maintenance, puncture repair etc) very difficult. Better to permanantly bend the frame as described, using threaded rod and nuts. I've done...

Have a look at Juicy Bikes, they're local to you. Also have look at Woosh.

I moved to Wales on 2000 and virtually stopped cycling - couldn't handle the hills. Converted my bike in 2014 (Ezee kit), since then done about 12000 miles. Use it for local shopping (nearest town is 4 miles) and loads more leisure cycling than I've ever done, I'm now 67. I'm a self employed...

The tsdz2 fits in place of the bottom bracket. You would loose the three front rings going to a single. The system is torque sensing, so multiplies the effort you put in, as opposed to other systems which use pas. These sense rotation of the peddles to give assist, so it is possible to ghost...

My bum has a genetically programmed maximum range of 25 miles. Does mean I never suffer range anxiety though.

Self appointed, petty minded control freak. Ask him what his authority is and to provide it in writing.

No answers here but an interesting ponder. The reason that Li-ion car batteries do so well is that the charge/discharge cycle depth is very restricted compared to bike batteries. That's to say that the management sytem only allows charge to around 80% of cell capacity (whilst still allowing...

Would you drive a car up a slow steep hill in the same gear you use for cruising? It's the same with a mid drive bike. You must be in the right gear for the motor not to strain. Stick with rear hub, easier to ride and more reliable for commuting.

I'm not so sure about 'weedy' motors. A 15A controller at a nominal 36v will be developing 540W (battery allowing) on top setting. Chris Frome and the like, develop in the region of 300-350watts when mountain climbing. Even allowing for inefficiencies the motor develops far more, so long as...

Use it, charge it, enjoy it. Try to charge as near to next use as possible. Partial charges don't harm Li-ion technology. This comes from old Ni-cad technology. If you're not going to use the bike for a period (weeks), charge it then go out and put 10-15 miles on it, then store it. Don't...

Car systems are way more sophisticated than bike systems. Bike bms has top down bleed resistors to balance cell strings. Therefore, if you only charge a bike battery to 80% it cannot balance. Also if battery voltage achieves the same level as the charger output voltage the no current flow can...

Ok, just looked at the spec, unfortunately it does actually say much. It looks like the controller will be in the base of the battery. Might be worth feeling around the base of the battery under shut down, to see if it's hot. Does the motor have any markings on it? Have you tried askin e-bikes...

It sounds like a classic case of the battery not being able to supply the amperage that the controller/motor is calling for. Under heavy load conditions (high amperage) if the battery cannot produce quick enough, then the voltage will sag, maybe as far as lvc (low voltage cutoff). Then the bms...