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Some very interesting points raised here and I'm very greatful for the thought folks have put into their answers . .. and this comment has enforced my views on how little I understand these things .... .... durgh! I hadn't apperciated that particular point especially as it's so obvious...

Some interesting and informed comments - thank you. I perfectly understand them, even though my understanding of mechanical forces in structures such as bike frames, forks, drop-outs and so on, is rather basic, but one of the comments above made me think about braking forces on forks too: So...

Now I know there's been many a discussion on whether it is wise to fit a front hub motor to a bike with carbon forks, but here's the thing.... I met up with a cycling buddy who I've not seen for many a year and they now ride electric and has three bikes with the Cytronex C1 kit (link) a front...

I've just read through the Woosh PDF for installation of their kit using the bottom bracket that has a torque sensor built in, thus negating the need for a PAS sensor. This configuration of course does not allow the 'ghost pedalling' that some people prefer (or require) that comes with a...

Set the speed cut off to 25kph rather than the default of 40 as if you're going more than 25, it is relatively easy to pedal unassisted Vs using the motor. Also in OSF, keep lowering the percentage power uplift in the various assist levels to a point where it's still comfortable to ride. I've...

And back in your post#19 As I promised up thread I went out for a short 15 mile breeze today, including some mild hilly bits, to guage how the bike felt in assist Level 4. I most dilligently attempted to see if the way you described your experience of power delivery (two power levels etc) was...

A fair comment for someone who hasn't had the opportunity to read the manual that goes with the OSF - I can't find a link to the PDF manual at the mo but this is an example of what it says: Fair enough, I will try what you say over the next couple of days - these days I only use PAS level 1...

I wonder @saneagle if there is some sort of problem with your particular TSDZ2? I remember you describing your experiences on your TSDZ2 bike when you first reviewed it and I said then that your experience was not the same as mine as in it absolutely DOES provide power in proportion to rider...

You're right about the small batteries for the Cytronex and Swytch but range of course depends on how much assist you want from the motor and ride length. Several members of my local Cycling UK group (most in their late 60s/early 70s) have the Cytronex on tandems (and one solo bike) and with one...

PS - a question please @saneagle - assumptions are something I'm not keen on but can it not be assumed that if the Swytch supplied motor in a 26" or 700c wheel that needs to conform to the UK pedelec limit of 25Km/h, will be an appropriate speed? and around 210rpm rather than 328rpm with the...

Agreed but I'm specifically looking for a front hub motor with a silvered finish (or maybe a satin grey finish but I'll not be painting a black one as some wag on here suggested ). The Swytch motor has a very nice finish but finding another brand seems less than easy.

Bump - anyone have any clues on the above please? Where are my usual go-to gurus on this one? - @saneagle , @Nealh and @Cisco-man seeing as you actually have a Swytch kit?

Sometime soon I shall be looking for a used Swytch hub motor, ideally in a 26" wheel. Ebay seems as good a place to look as any - for instance, recently there was one in a 26" wheel but I was unsure of the coding, particulalry the 5XX bit as other wheels I've seen have had 6XX on them. So can...

The OP said that speed was still being registered. When my sensor/magnet has become mis-aligned, after a few minutes riding (with power) the display shows an error code (can't remember the number?) but until the error code appears, the motor runs ok I'm running OSF so maybe these things differ...

+1 to what @saneagle says - as someone who has a TSDZ2, I got caught out with this 'not waiting' or starting with 'pedal pressure' etc. The initialising takes, 3, maybe 4 seconds at the most. I use the VLCD6 display and on powering on, the display doesn't initially show the full battery level -...

My pennies worth: BEARINGS SERVICE If you went for a bearing service and from what you say above, around 15,000 miles will get you another 4yrs cycling before you're back to where you are now. In that time your bike may develope a different issue or indeed the battery (at £500?) may need...

Never a truer word uttered on this subject. Some folks spend £100's on saddles over the years and still never find the comfort they are looking for. Many people hate them or go pale at the thought but the Brooks B17 work for me as they mould to the sit bones nicely after a while (in defining 'a...

I've declared the battery pack scrap. For my own amusement I've cut away the BMS from the cell pack and in due course I'll find a use for the 5 good cells and out of curiosity I'll play around with one of the others to see what it's like after a 'recovery' but it'll not go anywhere near an...

Thanks for the input @saneagle - I incorrectly said 'measured at the BMS' - I actually measured the voltage at the ends of the cell pack at the points marked 'X' in the last picture above. Anyway, since then I've managed to probe through the mastic blobs (heck, that stuff really bonds and is...

Getting the battery pack apart: Removing the rubber casing: The casing is a very tight fit - I used thin 1" palette knives to prise the casing off. I started by prising the rubber away from the centre of the long edge working intially from 'inside' the connector void and then the top edge, as...