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No, the Switch motor if have is the AKM 100SX. When I was looking for a front hub motor I found the AKM 100SX & Bafang G370 each delivering around 40nm iirc but they were the most powerful I could find so I'd be interested if you find one more powerful than those.

Hi @Vin - as you've seen, opinions vary - here's some more to add to the pile: The brakes - if we take a front hub conversion as an example, you'll be adding the weight of the motor plus the electronics and a small bag to hold them - so around 2.5Kg. Then there's a battery - if your'e going for...

Part of the numbers engraved on the motor are '100SX-6XX' so I'd guess it's an AKM 100 but I don't know if a clone or otherwise. From other postings, someone when talking about their Gen 2 Swytch kit also mentioned '100SX 6XX' and a friend brought his Gen 3 bike around to me to look at and again...

Someone else ditched the Swytch and I got their wheel and hub motor from ebay. It's now on a road bike with a KT sine wave controller (in the tool holder on the seat post) and the KT-LCD4 discretely hiding on the drops. The battery is a 8.4Ah self build in the seat pack A bit more cable tidying...

I have opened a MAX battery pack (see my post HERE) and you can get into it in a non-destructive manner - not easy but do-able and re-assembly is more than feasible.

@xla99 said: So what was the range in the first few weeks? Was your wife riding the same route and using similar levels of assist as in the first few weeks? And you also said How good is this friend I'm wondering as you could ask him to ride with your wife's battery to see whet range he gets...

Well, you've come to the right forum to get 'technical abilities' which given the lack of Swytch support is going to become a bit of a necessity if you're looking to keep the Swytch kit or even if subsequently going to some other conversion kit (others before you who have given up on Swytch have...

PLA - I've got some PTG but the PLA was already loaded so I thought I'd see how it fared. TBH I'm not that experienced at 3D printing so any comments on choice of filament are welcome.

Just sharing with the forum how I fitted a 12-magnet drive side PAS sensor to a Campagnolo Power Torque bottom bracket on a road bike which uses external bearing cups. I chose this type of PAS sensor for its aesthetics as it is very discrete. This idea is also suitable for Shimano Hollowtech 2...

The P1 setting in post #13 it is given as 96. There are apparently variations in magnets and gear reduction ratios of the Aikema 100SX (and other motor no doublt) so this value may not work for you. In my case using P1=96 gave a motor cut-off speed of 12 kph wheras after trying the 'cogging'...

Funnily enough I'm just putting a redundant Swytch wheel/motor (thank you ebay and @cheesemonkey )into an old road bike I've not ridden for years and I took my initial settings for the KT controller from a post HERE which had P1 as 96 which led to the motor cutting out at 12 kph. I could have...

I can't offer any tech advice @Matthew Hutchinson but just to say I love your adaptation on the trike and 'getting out there' - bravo sir

@guerney , As a very experienced user of action cameras for biking, could you for the sake of others considering a similar approach, tell us whether having a camera has increased safety on the road for you and how. BTW I think the other measures you've taken to improve your safety on the road...

+1 for all of that. Anyone considering spending serious money on a camera needs to (a) be clear on what they hope to achieve and (b) make a realistic apraisal of the liklyhood of achieving those objectives. I am fortunate to NOT have to commute or travel (much) on busy roads and I feel for...

So what is the inner rim width of your current wheels and what width tyres are you hoping to fit? Sheldon Brown 'says' tyre widths of 1.5 to 2x the inner rim width are fine but I've read in other places of 2.5x being ok too.

Now you're getting into the realms of wheel building often referred to as stressing (or de-stressing) wheel tension. As is typical, searching the internet shows more than one way of doing this and of course, critics of some of the methods. I have my way of de-stressing which I'll not go into...

@guerney, I'll certainly feed back on the truing stand. Amazon isn't always the best or even near it but their returns regime is very good and for items like this it is reassuring to be able to send it back. I've mixed views on a spoke tensiometer - I've tried one and have found it useful to...

To help avoid such an issue, after re-fitting the Q/R, place the bike bqck upright, release the Q/R skewer and let the weight of the bike help 'seat' the wheel into the dropouts nd then re-tighten the skewer. If this isn't working for you, I'm wondering if your have a Q/R wheel (that only...

So I was indeed looking to add the truing stand to my Xmas wish list but whilst trawling Amazon I saw the one below at just over £20 which looks the same as those from other Amazon sellers at around £45-£50 so I've ordered one and if it's 'pants' then back it'll go.

.... did anyone mention tubeless? There are those who swear by them but the only conversation I hear amongst my cycling chums, is about the problems they encounter.