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No noises, completely dead. I used it the day before for commuting as usual and my last 0.5 mile is flat. Swapping front motors with my other bike produced the same results. I have ordered another one but if I can get this working it would be great.

I've read the PDF and there is no way I can do that testing because my controller/motor/motor cable are all push in plugs and I can't get to them with a tester. It looks like I'll have to buy a new one. Thanks

You gave me this advice a few months ago and it saved me money. It freewheels forwards and freewheels a little bit backwards so sounds like the sensor which I will read up on. Thanks

The last time I had a problem with my motor I had some helpful advice that saved me money so you never know. I have two (nearly) identical eBikes with identical parts and the other day one of them stopped working, I'd been riding it the day before with no problems. So this was an easy test...

I have no idea to be honest, you need advice off somebody like AmigaFan who is on here and has converted dozens of bikes to see which he prefers and why. I have no problems getting up banks with front wheel drive. I prefer front motor to rear motor but only because you've got to get the cassette...

Only the one on my mates bike. Personally I haven't noticed a difference between all three motors.

Both of mine are front motors and I get up hills easily. I've had a rear motor and had a go on my mates Bafang motor and there isn't a lot of difference in my opinion.

I have a 250 watt motor but mine seems to peak out at around 18mph on the throttle on the flat.

You've had the answer above but my experience of doing 30mph on the throttle was not good. Some idiot motorists will still see a cyclist up front and go into the 'must get past no matter what' mode which means they can accelerate way over the speed limit just to get past you and then pull over...

Most people on here will agree the best way forward is to buy a great bike and convert it. I originally bought a Cyclotricity Stealth which virtually fell apart but then bought a Trek 4300 second hand for £140 and put the Cyclotricity electrics on that, touch wood it is my main bike and still...

Nealh will probably correct me but when I started with eBikes I read an article where you multiply the volts by the ah and divide by 20 to give you an 'average' distance. eg 36v x 10ah = 360 / 20 = 18 miles.

That is a very small battery. I recently bought a 36v 12.8ah from here and I'm quite pleased - https://www.yosepower.com/en/category/E-bike-Battery-35.html

Convert the bike you are comfortable with

I think you already know :)

I've put some of these on my MTB and I'm very impressed in this weather - https://www.schwalbe.com/en/spike-reader/ice-spiker-pro.html I got them for £20 each.

The throttle on the Cyclotricity Stealth was/is definitely all or nothing, I know because I'm still using it on another bike.

When I bought my first eBike about 5 years ago I read some reviews/tests and I always remember a couple of articles where the owners said something like: On PAS I get 25 miles but on throttle it does 35 miles. On another forums this week somebody has also said they get more miles if they use...

When I went to buy my first normal road bike about 6 years ago I was told to have a 23" frame and I'm 5ft 6ins. I wasn't really happy but tried a couple more at Halfords and went back to the original shop to order the 21" instead and they shook their heads. After a few months I still felt uneasy...

I've got to go back around 5 years but my Brother in Law kept calling me a cheat so I told him to come down my house on his £5,500 Cervelo for an experiment. I told him to cycle down to the bottom of the bank and then cycle back up and to remember how much effort he put in. He got on my...

What about Lithium Ion?