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It will be really difficult trying to retrofit hall sensors to a motor that was designed to run sensorless. They have to be positioned in exactly the right place for the motor to work properly. And then you will have to rewire the motor so you can feed the 5 hall sensor wires in. Another issue...

Your wife should be pleased with that. It’s a lovely bike.

You will find that your mid drive will require much more ongoing maintenance than a hub drive Saracen. Your drive train wear will increase, so keep an eye on your chain, derailleur and rear sprocket. They will need changing more often.

Ammo boxes. https://www.militarykit.com/collections/boxes-storage I would fit them to my greaser if I didn’t already have a nice pair of weathered in leather panniers. They are ideal to use as battery boxes as well. Less chance of burning your house down when the battery catches on fire.

In a sensored motor there are 3 hall sensors in a motor positioned 60 degrees apart. A small voltage is created on the output of each hall sensor that is sent to the controller when the magnetic field changes by the motor rotating. There are 3 sets of windings in the motor (green, blue, yellow)...

My rear brake switch is configured to operate a brake light. The front brake switch stops the motor. I don’t use brake sensors on my mtb because I found they rattled around too much over bumps and jumps and kept cutting the motor when I didn’t want them to.

I used hot glue on these and I don’t think they look that bad. They work ok and nothing has fallen off yet.

If I were going the diy route I would use welding lugs instead.

They are XT150

He should still make sure he has a couple of decent torque arms even at 48 volts and 20 amps.

I had to oil cool my SWX02 running at 52 volts with a 35 amp controller. The grin simulator was spot on with the time to overheat, I tested it without oil and I stopped the motor at 120c. I have fitted a LM35 temperature sensor and I’m monitoring the temp using a 3 1/2 digit 2 volt meter. I...

You can increase the top speed a bit by replacing the battery, controller and display with a 48v or 52v. But the small wheel size will always be working against you. And for any significant improvement you will have to oil cool the motor, or it will overheat. Financially it’s not really worth...

You have to size your battery for the maximum that the controller can deliver and add a bit for safety. So if the maximum draw on your controller is 15 amps then you really need a battery that can deliver 20 amps. Your motor is likely to be operating at over 500w uphill unless you are giving it...

It’s only really worth it if you are building batteries regularly. For a one off build, once you have bought all of the equipment its close to and possibly more than the cost of buying a new battery with proper cells. I considered building one myself but the cost, hassle and especially risk of...

There have been quite a few police crackdowns in city centres around the UK during the last couple of years. Mostly in pedestrianised shopping areas. These have resulted in confiscation of plenty of delivery riders e-bikes. New York and California police are also clamping down on illegal bikes...

You could say the same applies to Halfords selling e scooters.

Engwe M20 seems to be selling well in the UK, presumably due to the low price. They are supplied via their Polish warehouse. It looks really poor build quality but must appeal due to the relatively high performance straight out of the box for just over £1000 for the single battery version. I...

Vruzend sell weldless/solderless kits as well. They do make the overall size of the pack bigger and they aren’t as cheap as welding. https://vruzend.co.uk/collections/battery-kits

Bung a QS205 on it and give your passengers a thrill ride.

Do you want to remove the controller from the hub and rewire it to use an aftermarket controller and display?