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Your bike will be particularly difficult to derestrict because all of the wiring runs through the frame, it has an integrated controller, integrated battery, and a locked display. It can be done but it will be a lot of faffing about.

Is there any particular reason you have chosen a square wave controller instead of a sine wave? Here is an article explaining the difference between the two https://ebikesolution.co.uk/blogs/news/sine-wave-vs-square-wave

The requirement is to have a motor that is UK compliant which the OP has because it has the necessary engraving and label. He can run any controller he likes so long as it is configured to run within all of the other UK requirements. It then becomes the OPs own responsibility if he chooses to...

I have started using this stuff. It’s water based and doesn’t leave brush marks. I even brush painted the front wheel on my Puch Maxi with it and it looks like a spray job. https://www.toolstation.com/bedec-multi-surface-paint/p51700

Yes but be careful you can easily overheat your motor if you feed it too much power, especially if you are doing a lot of hill climbing. It may be a good idea for you to research oil cooling and temperature sensors. You may not need them, but you should gain an understanding of how increasing...

Do you ride on gravel much? It does look very stone chipped.

It just has a 250 watt engraving on it to make it European compliant. The H550W is rated at either 750 or 1000 watts dependant upon the winding. And they can be run higher if you are careful to keep the temperature at an acceptable level. The controller and battery limit the power to the...

I just wave mine about until the stuff shrinks.

That looks like a Bafang H550W to me. Here is the current Bafang workbook. I think your motor is about half way down. It shows the real power ratings. https://www.bafang-e.com/Uploaded/Labels/202308100327283621.pdf

Try it before buying a new heat gun. My heat gun started to melt the pipe.

What motor do you currently have? I would be surprised if it is only capable of 250 watts even though that’s what it says on the label. It‘s not normally the motor that’s the limiting factor. It will be the controller and battery.

There are commercially available guards for the Bafang motors, but they are expensive for what they are. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/225390998616?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338268676&toolid=10044&customid=EAIaIQobChMIisXmytWchgMV7aWDBx2VdBrNEAQYAyABEgLRKPD_BwE...

This isn’t me, but our riding style is about the same and some of the conditions that I ride in are worse. This is normal after I come back from a ride, so without the bash plate the cooling fins would be completely blocked up with mud.

Yes they are and I was concerned about this when I first fitted mine. But I haven’t had any problems with overheating so far even in really hot weather. I did consider drilling some holes in it for airflow, but I cycle a lot in mud and they would soon get blocked up.

I was fortunate enough to have kept a small length of this after replacing a section of pipe for my soak away. https://www.toolstation.com/underground-pipe-110mm-3m/p15211

Here are a few photos with the bike upside down so you can see it better. My cable also exits at the bottom and the bash guard does a good job of protecting that as well.

There a a few currently for sale on eBay, but they are ridiculously expensive for what they are. Maybe you should think about upgrading your bike with more modern components.

That’s just a section of drain pipe that I cut and bent using a heat gun, then cable tied to the motor with some rubber spacers. The spacers are a pack of pencil erasers from Tesco that also act as shock absorbers. I was concerned that the motor would overheat because it stops airflow, but it’s...

Yes I saw that. It’s nasty, I’m sure you can do better than that.

My mtb had a triple chain set before my BBS conversion so I left the front derailleur in place as a chain guide and removed the cable and adjusted the screws.