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The areo bike (5.8 ah) and gtec both have very small batteries. The gtec has no gears, the aero has two. Both factors limit the range and usefulness of the bikes. Disk brakes really are a no brainier on a new bike. You can get good bikes on eBay or similar. Then convert. £200 gets a very nice...

Fits great with the style and colour of the brommie. Much posher than my B&Q toolbox

There is a formula that flecc produced, deduct the value of the battery then about 20% devaluation per annum which leaves the cycle components virtually worthless. Then for the battery value it at zero after 3 years. So that says any 5 year old bike is worth about nowt. But the bike looks clean...

Your a dealer? What you got? Bet you live in one of the sides,, Woodside?

What battery's did you get?

The energy is 1/2 m V*V so it's .5*20*20= 200 units of energy or .5*25*25= 325 units or more than 50% greater energy in a crash. The increase surprised me too.

Hub is cheaper and simpler in operation. The design means it is harder to blow the motor, a crank in top gear trying to climb a steep hill is a recipie for smoke. But a hub motor needs connecting and can have issues with spokes. D8veh is a minor God on ebikes. I would hardly dare contradict him.

Cycle components are common. Keep the bikes simple. I suspect a rear hub drive with no gears and disk brakes is simplest. And lowest cost. Front hub drive and rear gear hub is next combo I would look at. Or a premium setup with full suspension and crank drive for mountain bikers. It would cost...

It's the weight transfer. Yes locking isn't effective control. But it dose show how good the front brakes are. Hence the advice here of front disks and anything for the rear.

It's good your rear is locking up :eek:. It shows your front brake is working well. The braking forces are low to the ground and point backwards. Your momentum is high up and forwards. That results in a rotational force about the front wheel. Your back wheel starts to lift up and loses grip...

There is a real reason for price increases, the brexit stuff is making the cost from China higher. It may get worse too... If you get British cycling membership you can get 10% off in halifrauds. And you could always haggle. The best prices were £720 ish

No you have to make a smarter choice for that.:D

The 250 watt isn't really true. The specification is the manufacturer rates the motor at 250 watts. The only testing is to make sure that the motor won't burn out at 250 watts continuous. Most motors run at near 400 watts with some peaking at over 800 watts. The speed limit is 25 kph for assist...

When I was young and fit. I did the little Clyde so gourock down the river to largs accross to Dalry and bridge of Johnston then across Greenock. Or the big Clyde that includes Paisley and ardrossan. I assume you're around Ayr. A little south for me but heading north to Largs on the coast has...

My wife pulled a trailer with daughter up a steep hill in Bristol with a bh. The electric bike lets you shift a fair weight.

Use the power, you will cycle more, further and more often. Trips to Largs and Then you can get up to the cloch for a drum, The miles will build as the fitness dose. The crossfire is OK most bikes have some issues, it's just the impulse motored bikes we say avoid completely.

Legally they are all limited! In action they have motors that run at 4-800 watts. Performance is therefore similar getting to 25 kph, snappier acceleration means reduced range. Why do you want one?

D8ve, as my bbs controller is duff? You said it uses a 5 lead one? Can I rig a replacement / external controller and would the CA be a nice complementary controller?

Welcome, Pics please. And a review we don't have many tandem riders here.:)

Welcome, enjoy the ride.