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It works really well for me, the hub is a SRAM Spectro P5, AKA Pentasport, a design that dates back to before Fichtell & Sachs (generally known as Sachs) were bought up by SRAM. The 5 gears are enough with hub assistance, 4th is set about right for the 25kph top hub assistance speed, 1st is...

Kinda see how this works for you, but I have a front hub motor, so have both motor and display cables coming to the headtube, which would need a bigger bag. On the other hand my connector wires for brake sensors and throttle are redundant so can be cut off at their exit from the main cable-...

I would very much appreciate suggestions to shorten and tidy up the wiring on my build, which currently has a 'nest' of coiled cables under the bars. This Cyclotricity kit came with the waterproof connectors which seem to be called either julet or Higo (the white lighting cables will be replaced...

It's got julet connectors, which was one reason that I picked the one I did. Maybe Cyclotricity have updated their cabling recently. What about the battery I found. Only 10Ah but I don't think I need more and I like that you save £15 if you don't want another identical charger to the one I have...

Ah OK, so I would be looking to replace the controller with something like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KT-22A-Sine-Wave-36V-48V-500W-Electric-Controller-Waterproof-9-Tube-For-Bike/163877746612?hash=item2627dff7b4:g:YiAAAOSw1V9dikAu This battery says "Discharge Standard current:25A" but is...

No it is my fault, I was looking at 36V 500w batteries and found this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/36V-10AH-350W-500W-HaiLong-Lithium-Li-ion-Pack-E-Bike-Battery-Electric-Bicycle/383150842207?hash=item593591e15f:g:f3cAAOSwcq5de7Mr to compare with the one you linked, as an example of what will not...

OK thanks so if it says "Discharge Standard current:10A-13A, Discharge Max current:28A-30A" that's not going to do, presuming the 'standard' is the continuous? EDIT what about going 48V? EDIT 2 confused re the 'controller' in my 'battery receiver', this is not the controller that I soldered...

So what battery can give 25A? Can't seem to find anything to buy complete.

Mind you the battery has been subject to criticism. Unfortunately I have had it since early August so too long to send it back under the 30 days returns, so would I get an improvement by buying this...

OK so tried it on some proper hills, it is an improvement and gets me up a specific hill in 1 gear higher than previously. I guess this is all I can expect from a 250W hub motor and only a mid drive would be a significant improvement, or an illegal higher Watt hub of course.

Point of order ;) : Pedal reflectors are required on all UK bicycles when ridden between sunset and sunrise, unless the bicycle was manufactured before 1985. Does not matter that virtually all roadies are riding around without them on their fancy clip-in eggbeater pedals, the law is the law, but...

I didn't know what to expect and it was the first one I opened, so I was surprised when I opened the second one and it had rather less. Are they soldered individually to get just the right Amps?

First pic is the controller from my bike, second is from my wife's bike. The marks on the piece of card behind the shunt correspond to the extra solder I added, black for the first one and red for the second one (I put the card back in for the photos hence you see both sets of marks in both...

Cool, and no worries about watts display on my KT LED890 ;)

Really helpful post, thank you so much. Do I need to use a throttle to use the extra power?

I believe you can fit a gear change sensor, which will cut the power from the motor when you change gear. Maybe worth considering even if you have the good habit of not changing gear under load? If the chainring you are fitting is further inboard by 1.5mm compared to the Blingring, taking it to...

Most references on the net give the Alfine 11 chainline as 41.8mm. If you flip a dished Nexus sprocket it moves the chainline out 5mm so you will get about a 46.8mm chainline. The Blingring brings the chain 4mm in compared to the standard Bafang's 50mm so you get a 46mm chainline, close enough...

Mouton blanc ou mouton noir? ;)

One further question: do I need a throttle to use the extra power from the shunt mod? I am only using PAS ATM as a throttle won't fit on drop bars. Straight bars are 22.2mm thick, drop bars are 23.7ish plus get thicker and many become "non-round" once you get above the point where the brake...

OK interesting. so why does my hub have 28" stamped on it, indicating there is some kind of difference between it and others designated for smaller wheels? Obviously the first thing to try is the shunt mod as you suggest, my soldering skills are a bit iffy but it looks fairly straightforward on...