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I have the very basic KT LED890, the manual that came with it was only a user manual. I found a full PDF on line somewhere but it doesn't function quite the same in some ways and in any case there are no C settings, only P settings.

Controller is a KT36ZWSR, maximum current 14A +/-1A

Good points, the Mouton is a very special bike that rides far better than any catalogue bike, but knowing the bike also causes me to have some questions re the conversion, e.g. whether the motor fit the non standard frame's bottom bracket area, where is the battery going, is the frame separable...

I have the basic LED controller, so I guess a better LCD one will give me options, don't know what the controller is would have to open up the box and take a look. This is the battery, so yes a cheap one...

The one I bought and fitted recently looks identical, externally, to the MXUS XF-07, but is it the same or a lesser copy? In which case would the XF-07 be any better, or should I be considering a BMP to pull myself and a trailer up the Cornish hills? I can only use a front hub or mid drive due...

Deleted, soz

Hi from a former Moulton APB S7 owner (with the truly terrible Sturmey Archer Sprinter 7 hub...) With the motor installed you will not need anything like the low gears you have currently. Are you using 1/8" or 3/32" chain and sprocket? A 1/8" chain gives some leaway running on the chaingring...

The Spanninga ebike lights including 80 lux front and top rated rear cost £30.14 and £11.64 respectively. Front weighs 120g despite having an alloy casing. rear weight not stated but less than the front: https://www.justathlete.co.uk/spanninga-axendo-80-xe-bike-front-light-led...

Not really, you really will not go much slower if you don't put any more effort in on a hill, and, assuming you are capable of riding an ebike at 15mph with minimal effort, which I certainly am, then the effect on range on the flat will be negligible. However I am now quite happy to retract my...

Philips Saferide 60 beam shot (the Spanninga Axendo is a direct copy of it, as they bought the design off Philips when Philips stopped making bike lights, and bear in mind that mine is the 80 Lux ebike version so a tad brighter still): From this website...

In theory it seems odd, but in practice if you have any risk of running the ebike battery flat and ride in the dark it is quite a simple solution. The resistance from a good hub dynamo like a Shimano top end one is tiny, you just can't sense it. If I knew how to get regen power out of an ebike...

I also have plans to use a hub gear (Sachs Spectro P5 with drum brake), hence the choice of front hub motor (the hub is reasonably tough, but decided mid drive too expensive to justify for my commuting uses) and why I am fitting e-bike lights running from the e-bike battery (and will be carrying...

The dynamo equivalent of the Spanninga front light I am fitting is rated 60 Lux, rather than 80 Lux of the e-bike version, and a full dynamo set uses up to 3W at 6 volt so 0.5A, so yes under 1A sounds right for the e-bike lights, however thicker wire is more durable and resistant to damage, e.g...

Just to emphasise my last point: if you have a rear hub or mid drive kit, as with the OP, a front hub dynamo set-up is the best solution by far, IMO, for the reasons given.

I have a pair of Spanninga e-bike specific lights (Axendo 80 XE front, Elips XE rear), which I intend to use with my Cyclotricity 250w/36V front hub kit. I was going to use a Wuxxing light switch but as you say just hardwiring to the battery and controlling with the battery switch makes a lot...

You have got away with it, so far... but aluminium will suffer micro stress cracks when bent, then stress corrosion can eat into them propagating further cracking, the process can take time but then one day it will fail suddenly. Steel can take much more bending and even when it does fail it...

Yes on reflection what I should have said.

No room to fit it upside down, but yes, as I was typing earlier I was wondering whether it would fit inside out, will look at that later.

Thanks. BTW by your user name I presume you have or previously owned a VFR400? If so very cool bike, fancied one myself 'back in the day' but ended up with a rather less exciting GPZ500.

I'm in a similar situation with my Cyclotricity front hub kit, which came with a PAS for the left hand crank, the 12 magnet ring could not be fitted on my square taper BB due to lack of clearance between crank and BB shell, only 2-3mm, so I tried bolting the disc on the triple chainset in place...