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1 x lacing it is. Cheers

I take it I go for the longer of the spokes? 251mm or 252mm depending on mine or your calculations? I went and checked the erd again to be as sure as I can be and as it turns out I now get a different erd. This time I got the following figures from different parts of the wheel. I even taped a...

Were these builds using the Sapim strong spokes? Or plain 14g spokes? My rim arrived. Measured the erd using two spokes. Repeated it 4 times to make sure and I got a number of 604.5 erd. The rim is double eyeleted. I don’t know if this makes a difference. I used the grin spoke calculator...

Sorry I got confused about the spokes. The elbow on the Sapir strong is 2.3mm but the rest is 2.0mm. The hub motor I have is a Bafang. What size are the flange holes? If I did go for 14g spokes would I need flange washers? Only reason for 14g is I can get DT Swiss spokes for about 30p each.

Excellent advice. Thanks guys. So double butted is definitely the way to go rather than plain old 14g spokes?

I have trued a wheel twice now using the wheel in drop out method and zip tie. This has worked well for me. I have always wanted to build a wheel as i found the truing exercise pretty relaxing, it took a few hours but i was in no rush. I also changed a few spokes a while ago with the help of...

This did not work for me unfortunately.

Thanks

Sorry I forgot to ask. When pas is at 0 the throttle does not work. The throttle only works when the pas is between 1 and 5. Is there a way to have the throttle on even when pas is 0?

Thanks again the P2 setting worked like a charm set to “1”. It now reads the freewheeling speed.

No I bought it from a chap who had done 100 miles. It was a 48v 700c code 11 I assume? One thing I have noticed on the lcd8 is that the motor temperature is always 15 degrees. It never changes. Even after a long hill. Is there a setting I have which is wrong in the programming?

This hub has 9 pins. The P2 value is set to 0 so I have changed it to 1. I will give this a go. Then I will try P6. I appreciate all the help.

Thanks for the help. I will charge everyday to not over stress the cells. Is the voltage pretty accurate on the lcd8? Lastly, to get a freewheeling speed reading I need an external speed sensor correct?

I only ever use the PAS 5 on that hill. Everywhere else level 1 or 2. I will keep an eye on the battery voltage. My commute is around 8 miles a day. I was seeing If I could get 2 days before charging the battery but I may start charging it everyday. What do you guys suggest?

I really appreciate the detailed responses. This give me a much better understanding of what is happening. I did the test last night. Fully charged battery. 54.3v Full throttle up the hill 671watts 48.2v. Just before the end of the hill roughly a minute and a half later display showing...

It’s a dual voltage LT 36v 48v controller. The previous SWX02 was a 36v 250w code 13 motor.

Its a new battery from unit pack power using Sanyo 3500 cells. Thanks for explaining this, my weight of 95kg plus the 10% hill when the battery is less than half probably does not help matters. Its a small KT 15amp controller and in the settings of the lcd its set as max current available or...

I have a small 48v 7ah battery. A KT 15 amp controller. I normally use assist level 2 and level 5 for a 10% hill that is about 300 metres long. I had done 16 miles in total and the battery voltage was showing around 44-46v on the lcd8. As I got on the 10% hill and switched to assist level...

I swapped the wheel to a 700c 48v SWXO2 code 11 this has stopped the over heating of the controller. Why would this be? Appreciate the help guys.

Thanks guys If it continues to over heat will it shut down? or cause some other damage?