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You got me thinking about this as it would be a dialy routine same times so did you mean timer switches charger on just before I get home then I manually set it charging and the timer switches the power off after a set time known the batteries will be fully charged in? then timer switches power...

Would regular lipo users say whether these are suitable for daily use? Thinking my bottle vbattery was about to die I bought lipo's and all the associated gear and learned how to use them but then my bottle battery kept on working-and-working so I've had the lipo's in storage mode now for months...

Could the batteries have gotten water into them and damaged the electronics inside?

Yes, so new is one for Oxydrive to diagnose, possibly a faulty BMS.

The problem you describe is what I get when my BMS shuts the battery off because a string of cells has been detected under 3v under load, where the on/off switch does nothing and I have to briefly connect the charger to switch the BMS back on and bring the battery back to life. I am fine with...

I'm no expert but unless you can monitor the cell voltage during use, i.e like in a torch I would go with protected cell.

When you remove the broken spokes, also remove 1 good one and measure it from the inside of its elbow bend to the end, then search ebay for 13g spokes or 14g spokes and find someone on there selling some your length. Measure the diameter of yours, 2mm=14g and 2.3mm=13g...

I know you've said it worked ok at the beginning but I would also double check the 5 coloured wires from the LCD3 plug match the same colours wire going into the controller on the socket.

Maybe try setting C11 to 1, then a restart. Not all S12S's are fully LCD3 compatible, they all work but if not fully compatible they seem to have slight niggles passing the data.

I will use a torque wrench where there is more than one bolt doing the holding, taking each bolt up gradually and evenly to ensure even tension across whatever it is being held.

No there is a bit of soldering involved. Search d8veh 's posts for 'watt meter' and he describes the wiring somewhere.

One of these WATT meters tells you ah used in real time, along with max watts/amps and min volts etc. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/60V-100A-DC-LCD-Balance-Voltage-Boat-RC-Heli-Battery-Power-Analyzer-Watt-Meter-/131643829371?hash=item1ea6956c7b:g:V9AAAOSwYHxWOIAp

2 years on... and 9000 Miles later .... ------------------ Am still commuting the 20 miles a day 5 or 6 days a week whatever the weather can throw at me on - the same bike (very weathered) the same chain from new(worn out) same tyres from new(goosed) same battery from new(very weak). same LCD...

I have a permanently fitted single led light for around town and also just upgraded to a 4x cree led off Amazon for about 18quid and it's uber bright on our pitch-black unlit lanes however I would not use it in town and if anything does come towards me I dip it well forwards so as not to cause...

Great review. How do you get the front lights beam to dip like that?

You could always go 10s 37v lipo pack.

One of these? http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route=common/home or http://www.greenbikekit.com/

D8veh give me this idea a while ago. http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR11.TRC1.A0.H0.Xproject+box.TRS0&_nkw=project+box&_sacat=0

I can get that effect by powering the bike on for a bit, then remove the battery and then pressing the power on button. The LCD briefly flashes on probably with the residual power left in the LCD electronics. I think your original problem could be a bad connection possibly between the battery...

The charger is probably correct for a 48v battery though as it was getting the battery up to 53v but labelled incorrectly along with the battery. Just out of interest stick a voltmeter on the chargers lead and see what it's at?