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I costed a wheel, KT T06S controller and LCD5 display plus cables a few days ago. It came to around 200 dollars, which is excellent value for what you get. Unfortunately shipping is another 200 dollars approx, so in round terms it would cost £300.00 plus any import charges. That's getting on...

I am in a similar position in that I have a "spare" Yose Power C500 display, integrated 15A controller/bracket for Hailong H1 battery, PAS sensor, throttle, brake levers and a battery. All I need is a 4in1 cable (available from Yose) and either a 26" 250w. front or rear cassette motor wheel...

There is a range of motors here with a choice of gear ratios and RPM:- Motor with Wheel rim : Zen Cart!, The Art of E-commerce (topbikekit.com) However, the only 250w. one listed is this:- Ebike AKM-100SX 36V 250W Front/Rear/Cassette Gear Hub Motor+16/20/ 26inch/27.5inch/28inch Wheel Rim...

I have two bikes converted with Yosepower kits. I bought one kit that included a battery and one without. I got a spare battery slider from Yose so that I could use the one battery on either. I only ride for leisure so it didn't make sense to have two batteries. You are using your bike to...

No. the controller supplied is an 18A which I run at 16A. I was thinking about swapping it for a KT 22A, but with a 20Ah battery I thought that setting it any higher than about 18A would not be good for the battery - at least long term. The difference between 16 and 18A doesn't seem worthwhile.

Yes it is, but those are not supplied with the 350W kits. The one supplied is the 36v 13Ah continuous, which has a max rating of 20A. 36V13Ah HL-I Down Tube Lithium-ion E-bike Battery – YOSE POWER UK This is the battery that I have.

I can concur about a 17mm dia spindle being too big for an "enclosed" type sensor. My symptoms were rather different to the OP though. Occasionally I had a big delay in the PAS working and then it would fail altogether. I had a large gap between the BB and the crank arm and as the sensor was too...

The first two columns are for 36v (15.6A and 17.4A), the third column is 48v. 13A. Agreed about 30A not enough for 31A controller. I've come to the conclusion that a 22A controller is a waste of time with a 20A battery as I would have to restrict it to about 18A to safeguard the battery? I'm...

That's the reason I bought this one:- It has recesses at each end to use the steel "hose clip" type clamps that came with it. As my frame is steel with brazed bottle mounts I didn't find the clamps necessary, but I wouldn't want to trust a heavy battery on riv-nuts in an aluminium frame . The...

I think The C500 Yosepower display will only work with a Yosepower (Lishui) controller. How much were you expecting to pay? A replacement 350w. controller is available from Yosepower UK for £32.00 including postage. I ordered one and it arrived within 3 days from their UK warehouse. Lishui 36V...

You could use an adapter to fit the battery rather than drilling that nice Thorn frame. I got one of these:- Electric Bicycle Frame Battery Box Mount For HaiLong E-bike Coversion Adapter | eBay Mine was the same as the above but from Amazon. I think it was about £22.00. There are lots of...

Yes indeed. The Japanese measuring instrument manufacturer Mitutoyo introduced the concept of Statictical Process Control to the UK in the mid-80's. I worked for a large UK tool distributor at the time and I remember trying to interest the head of metrology and inspection at the UK factory of...

Yes, that's a possibilty. Not in a rush though.

I decided a few weeks ago that my next project would have a step-through frame as there will come a time when I will need one. I am now casually musing over what to look for as a conversion. Ideally it will have 26" wheels, but not a suspension fork, which rules out a lot of MTB frames. I'm not...

Agree with all of the above. I have a 2008 BMW 3 series - nice car and well made. However, like a lot of cars it is festooned with sensors that give a warning of impending doom on the dashboard. The BMW "stealer" wants to charge an arm and a leg to diagnose, while the dim receptionist offers a...

Before the OP gets fed up with all this willie-waving, here are the choices I think he has, bearing in mind that a Rohloff hub rules out a mid-drive and a rear hub motor:- 1) Cytronex - Well made and very neat installation. Unique controller integrated into bottle battery means that you are...

Most 26" MTB rear wheels are 135mm OLD. Just make sure that the wheel is screw-on freewheel and not freehub (cassette). Some retailers seem to have a problem with listing them correctly! Most front hub-motor kits seem to have black rims and silver spokes, so if you are trying to match a rear...

You should be able to run a 7 speed freewheel if your rear frame drop outs are 135mm, but unless the smaller sprocket is smaller than what you already have (I'm assuming 14T) it won't offer any advantage other than you have a closer range. This is why i've fitted a DNP 11-28T freewheel. There...

A photo would help. Most 3x 6 set-ups on older MTB's have a 48-38-28T riveted front chainset. Some had a 42-34-24T and if yours is this size the larger chainset should be straight swap if it is the same make. Shimano ones fit a 122mm bottom bracket spindle to give a 50mm chainline (centre of...