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Many thanks indeed for finding those for me. I can't have everything, but I really didn't want the extra plugs for front and rear lights, but I could always cut them off and isolate the wires. One of the sinewave listings comes complete with 5-in-cable, so I'll probably go for that. The 17A...

It's a Yose "250w" AKM95RX cassette hub that @Slightlypedantic (of this parish) managed to find out from Yose is wound for 190-200rpm. I think he also calculated that it was around 8:1 gearing. If I derestrict it it tops out at about 18mph with the 36V. Yose 18A. controller. The main driver...

I've not done it, but I do know that if you fit a 7 speed cassette to a modern (8,9,10 speed) non-electric hub you have to fit a spacer behind the cassette (available from SJS Cycles). Other than that I don't see any problems, assuming that the bike has at least 135mm dropout spacing.

Thanks for looking. I am now in two minds after Nealh's input. At some point I will go 48v. and he suggests that the KT 15A may overheat. If I go with the 15A I'm concerned that it will not perform as well on 36v. as the Yose 18A controller I already have. That is neatly fitted in a black...

If you turn the axle does it run true? If not then it has twisted, although It's hard to imagine how that would happen. It looks solid at each end - how does the cable enter the hub? I think the axle could possibly be 2-piece with a screwed joint somewhere inside. I would put two nuts on each...

Thanks for the quick reply! Need to know:- Does it give a choice in P3 "Power-assist control Mode Setting" of "imitation torque control" - 1, and "speed control" -2. Model number. Approx size. Is it sine wave (9 pin motor cable)? Ideally, where did you buy it from? Please don't rush to do...

My apologies if this has been answered before, but after searching here and elsewhere I'm a bit confused - not difficult! My hybrid has a Yose Power 250w. rear hub kit, which I "upgraded" with their 36v. "350w." 18A. controller. I'm generally pleased with the performance but after reading...

The "Cat Ears" noise reducers arrived a while ago and they do cut down wind noise a a little and make it easier to hear things approaching from behind. It's not a huge difference but worth the £3.64 from Aliexpress. Now the temperature is dropping they also stop the ears getting quite as cold...

My hybrid currently has a Yose Power 250w. rear motor paired with a Yose Power (Lishui) 18A controller and C500 display. I'm contemplating upgrading to a KT TS06S "torque simulation" 15A controller from Top Bike Kits, along with the necessary cables and display. I've been reading the manuals...

I've just stuck some pins in the 3-pin female connector of the spare Yose Power magnetic sensor. With the magnet in contact I get "OL" on my multi-meter on all three pairs. Without the magnet touching the sensor I get "OL" on two pairs, but the audible buzzer sounds on the third pair. The...

Ah! That's worth a try. Thanks again.

Thanks for the quick reply. Sounds like I need a 2-pin sensor with the KT T06S then, which is a shame as TBK sell them in pairs and I'll only want one. Yes, I am a skinflint! :(

My apologies if this has been asked before, but I can't find anything with a quick search. I'm musing over upgrading one of my Yose Power fitted bikes with a KT controller and display, mainly to try out the "Torque Simulation", but also have the option to go 48V. at some point. Looking at...

Are these any good for you? https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/rims-tape/ryde-andra-40-20-inch-406-rim-black-32-hole/ Able to take tyres up to 65mm. The one reviewer says he used one to fit an Alphine hub on a Tern D8 (I know nothing about Tern's!). Also available in 36 spoke version. Ryde were...

Not quite. The controller that the OP has is rated at 15A max. so he shouldn't exceed that. My 17A. setting is with Yose's 18A controllers.

It sets the maximum current draw for the motor. If you have a Yose Power "250w" kit the controller has a max. current of 15A and the default setting of the display as supplied is 13A. Their "350w" kits have a controller with max. current of 18A and the default setting on the C500 display is 16A...

That may be so, but my memory of steel rims on my Claud Butler racer in the 1960's is of very poor braking, even with Weinmann centre-pulls, which were the best at the time. I can't imagine how dangerous steel rims and rim brakes would be on a converted bike! I am coming round to what saneagle...

I was browsing the TBK website last night. There is a controller that fits the HL1 base:- https://topbikekit.com/10s13s14s-36v48v-6mosfets-sine-wave-controller-for-hailong-case-52pcs-cells-p-695.html It's unclear to me whether they are dual voltage. They offer 36v and 48v, versions, but the...

Woo-hoo! Charged the battery this morning and the charger light turned to green after about 2 hours. Measured the voltage at the discharge socket as soon as it turned green - a full 42 volts, so it seems to balance OK. I will obviously need to keep closely monitoring it and on the rare...

Managed an absolutely glorious ride today to test the battery, taking in Berkswell and Meriden (Warwickshire). I must have driven past it loads of times, but never stopped to look at the National War Memorial for Cyclists:- Anyway, total distance of 32 miles and the battery voltage was 35v...