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They're great aren't they - I have 3 e bikes now ! So the typical components of a hub drive bike (which I think is yours ) are Hub motor within wheel Battery Pedal sensor Controller Display (Optionally throttle) If your motor and battery are ok, you could replace the controller, display and...

So that looks around 10% Incline which I would consider a good test. That combination of belt drive and 2 speed hub gears I think would suit a lot of people Let us know how it goes

I think it's just a combination of a very loose mud/ gravel surface and it being very steep, usually use about 40-50% power to try and minimize wheelspin

On Ingleby Incline (1 mile @20%), my BBS02B Boardman 29er goes up fine but there is a gate half way up. I really struggle to get going after the gate because it is so steep - combination of balance (more mine than the bike's) and wheelspin

I can't even imagine !

OMG - different level ! Where do you live ? Is that off road ?

Mapometer, and tick the tick boxes for gradient and elevation This is Ingleby Incline (which is off road track) that I've only done on my mid drive bike Eta. The other climb I referenced that I use my rear hub bike for was Carlton Bank

So when I originally got the e-bike kit (Bafang G020 rear hub 26" wheel ) it came with a 48v 18 amp speed based controller. I went up that hill many times with no problems. I fitted a torque sensor and it came with a smaller 36/48 v 15 amp 6 mosfet power based controller. On hot summer days...

Yep crank drive motor would work, also rear hub motor would work, just would need enough power. I am 105 kg and use my rear hub up long steep hills,. I slightly prefer my rear hub to my mid drive on roads / light trails, find it a more relaxing ride. I think where crank drives come into...

I guess, if your forks are suitable, you could go for a 36v Bafang g020 front hub as per @harrys - there are loads of g020 front hub motors on eBay and Ali. It is a heavier motor, might be slightly more efficient at low speeds, but for more power I think you would need more current from the...

Ok, that's 100%. I think 17 amps * 36v is approaching the maximum power through a front hub without wheelspin and probably approaching the limit for that motor. You could try a shunt mod but only solder a little bit. An AKM 128 is a lot more powerful and you could easily go to 20 or 22 amps...

I'm a bit surprised that 17 amp * 36v is not getting you up hills, especially at only 90kg Could you check the setting of C5 https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/limiting-kt-controller-power-believe-its-clone.43617/post-655025

Maybe shunt mod to your existing controller to get a bit more power (search shunt mod on these forums)

https://www.cato-unbound.org/2009/04/13/peter-thiel/education-libertarian

How heavy are you ? What is the max current of the KT controller ? Don't know if you could go to an 18 amp max KT controller with the swytch ( akm-100 ) motor : 20% more power. I think just changing the motor but keeping the controller output current the same won't make that much difference

Reminds me of these https://ecosmobike.com/products/windgoo-b3-electric-bike-scooter-12-inch-foldable-and-commuting-e-bike-scooter 36v 10ah battery not bad for that price. Totally throwaway design though when the battery expires

Sounds intriguing. I do think it is a compromise sometimes between the weight of the bike and how robust / suitable for an e-bike conversion it is. I did think of a light road bike, maybe a 10kg Boardman and a light weight kit, after the advice here from more experienced members I think I would...

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Thanks for reporting back, it's always nice to know we correctly identified the issue :-)