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Wago connectors are only good for testing. They have no mechanical cable retension and aren't designed for applications where vibration / movement is present.

They are returnable here so would cost me €0.25, not that I would ever use one for such a purpose in the first place.

You don't need gears, if the problem is really the clutch / bearing it will more than likely be a fairly standard part with a part number on it (probably on the back). The people who make parts like this don't normally get parts custom made, it is much cheaper to use off the shelf parts unless...

I'm pretty sure the clutch / bearing will be available from a bearing supplier.

That 'bearing' is the clutch.

You do realise off road use means private land that the public has no access to. Bridleways, footpaths, cycle tracks, common land etc are not included in this description and would lead to fines, points on licence charges of no insurance etc that could have serious consequences if you do have a...

Mine too, I cringe every time I see it.

You could mark the disc and the axle with a paint pen/tippex/marker pen to see whether there is any movement. Then you could confirm if there is a problem or not, before spending any money and more importantly introducing a potential new variable into the equation.

That wouldn't cause the milage resets.

That sounds like the battery in the display to me.

The 4mph thing is designed to be an aid when you have to push the bike, that's why it is called walk assist. It usually only has a low power output and is not meant to allow you to start without pedalling.

Splined? You probably need a special tool!

How did you in this post Brexit world manage to buy a battery, ship it back to Germany for repair (as a suspected faulty battery!) and have it shipped back to UK without paying import and export taxes at every stage as well as shipping dangerous goods?

Lederhosen aren't the best for cycling in especially when it's warm but they were fine for skiing a couple of weeks ago!

I used to lock mine whenever I was climbing on my XC mountain bike. Climbing was much easier without the forks (decent dual air Rockshocks) bobbing and engaging the lock was simple with a remote lever on the bars. Never bothered on either of my EMTb's though I do sometimes lock the rear shock...

Really, can't say in something close to half a century of riding bikes with magnets on spokes (whether for speedo or motor control) I've ever had one move unless it has been physically contacted by something else e.g. loose branches / hedgerows when off road etc.

Never had the need (or want) of brake sensors on either of my torque sensored, mid motor e-bikes. Changing gears as you are slowing down doesn't require enough force on the pedals to activate power. Low speed maneuvering you might want to be aware of your power level but normally would be in...

Apart from the issues with castor and camber which @matthewslack has mentioned there is no strength in that front end. Every time you hit a bump a little hard the flattened end of the top bar will bend upwards (who knows that may create some camber). There also doesn't appear to be any damping...

No, it would compromise the integrity of the rear triangle, the universal hanger is an addition to not instead of the dropout. If the frame was designed to take a motor with a 14mm axle then you would need adaptors for all the other variants increasing the costs. Most if not all higher end bikes...

You didn't read what they actually said "Frequently with 4x battery terminals 2x feed the +ve and 2x feed the -ve, And these are not always connected at the bike side with only one of each terminal employed. .. SO If your battery provides power via all 4x of its terminals But the inner 2x...