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Cos you are awesome ;). I suspect that maybe like myself there is a slight almost involuntary "lift" as you go to change gear.

A lot depends on why you want to cycle. If you want excercise then a bike with a torque sensor is best, if you want to go through the motions then a bike with a cadence sensor will do it for you. Are you looking for a bike for off road use or will it all be on road?

OP = original poster. As for wear on Eddie's drivetrain, the smaller the sprocket the more work it has to do, that is why mtb often have a steel granny gear and the others are aluminium.

Clearly not fit for this type of use even before things went bang. I was thinking in terms of connecting the light with twisted wires along the lines d8veh was talking about. But I guess the truth is you would probably need at least 1.5mm squared cable if not 2.5 to handle the current...

Bypass the bms and see what it is like.

As the OP hasn't given us any details of elevation change or gradient most of this discussion is meaningless. He is going to lose his licence, is not a stranger to cycling and actually only need a range of 22.5 miles. Any decent ebike with fast rolling tyres and a decent battery capacity will do...

Just over 40 miles with 4500 ft of climbing in the Alps at an average speed of 15.5mph on a Yamaha motored Haibike with a 400wh battery. This was with maxxis minion dhf tyres which are not known for low rolling resistance. While the bike is derestricted I was only using low power levels where...

I always prefer to have 2 lamps that are each able to allow me to ride quickly off road (mainly railway lines & fire roads) then if one fails I can carry on. I also prefer to have one on my head so I can look where I'm going which isn't necessarily the same way the bars are pointing. Thanks...

Link?

Well done d8veh, mine was tested for the first time last night. Was out for just over an hour, off road most of the time so light was on full. Using it as a head light to complement my Hope4. Found the beam has a good throw and is not too spotty. There is a bright central area with a not so...

Enjoy!

As long as it makes you feel good. You remind me of someone I used to work with, first time he took us to a proper trail centre he took us straight on to the hardest climb at the place. The rest of us ended up pushing up, the next time I went with him despite being 15 years older I kicked his...

Just shows how much you need to cheat then doesn't it! I'll flag them again with references to this forum next time I'm on my pc then. You really are a pratt aren't you.

Rides flagged

Actually I had quite a few KOM on forest track descents before I changed them to ebike rides. Oh but wait that would be off road wouldn't it. You are not racing other people on dissimilar equipment you are still cheating, set your own segments and compete against yourself.

And the title of the thread is? I'll give you a clue " How many people are using there e-bike off-road?" Yes I know there is a grammatical error in there but I just copied and pasted. You are not competing, you are cheating.

Why are you posting a road ride in this section. This is not a how much battery can you use thread. You still need to change these rides on Strava to ebike.

For most of my UK riding a normal mtb is a better choice but I had to leave my mtb in Austria. I didn't want to leave the Haibike unused until next summer. I am finding myself riding faster just to give the battery some work (unrestricted).

I think my Alpine and Eddie's riding may well be on a different level entirely, you wouldn't want panniers where we go! Hence the Your milage may vary.

Yes fair enough once you are moving, but if you have to stop where traction is poor then starting again is a nightmare. Many times over the summer I have found myself having to lower the seat to start off, bottom gear even with my 2x chainring set up is just too high to pull away without power...