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That's for the motor controller.

It's not the chain that's thick, rather the chainwheel because most have the torque sensor mechanism in it. A normal chainwheel is just a big cogwheel with the pedal arm attached in the centre. Takes some photos if you're not sure.

We need to be sure.

All these bikes are made with standard catalogue parts, so they don't need part numbers, and if they did give it their own part number, that wouldn't help you because everybody would sell it under the catalogue number. As I said before, the only way to figure out what it is and what's going on...

Does your new one have the torque sensor in the bottom bracket or does it have the big thick chainwheel with the torque sensor in the back?

A friend, who is good at DIY, should be able to sort it.

The Ukranians are getting crushed enough by the Russians. The last thing they need is to get squished by a pile of ebikes, especially as the batteries are likely to catch fire and burn them - probably cheaper than phosphor bombs, though.

You need to test each pair of the three pins separately, so three tests. Hold the axle in a vice or bike frame. Connect a voltmeter to any pair of pins. Set it to measure volts A/C, not D/C. Spin the wheel BACKWARDS. You should see some volts come on the meter, showing that the motor works as a...

Now see if you can use it to transmit live video and control a device that makes a camera track a moving object in real time over 1/2 million miles.

You must be showing it to the wrong people. When everything is in line, the battery will slide in easily. If it doesn't slide in, something is out of line. Anyone with any mechanical bent, should be able to figure out what is out of line and straighten it. If you brought it to my house in...

You can't entrails the spoke flanges by doing anything to the frame. If you sprung one side more than the other, the wheel would point in the erong direction. You can only do it by adjusting the spacing on each side of the axle. Some ebike frames are designed with off-set to deal with the...

Check that it firs first, then check that the two spoke flanges are not more than about 6mm off-centre.

You're not listening. It has to be ALL THE WAY TO THE LINE.

T That's perfect for a 26" wheel restricted to legal speeds at either 36v or 48v. It would also work OK on bigger wheels, but on a 29er, 36v might be better.

You didn't answer the second bit: Was it not working when you went to collect it? without seeing anything, it sounds like they took the wheel off when they did that work, and when they put it back, they didn't push the motor connector in far enough. It has to be all the way to the marked line...

Like you, I think the reaction is a bit hysterical, but it's because it's new. They figured out that there used to be none, and now there are 26, and they'd like it to go back to how it was with zero. One way to get zero is to ban ebikes and scooters. It saves lives, so must be a good thing...

I think it's a false economy to replace cells on a well-used battery. I might try it on a new one, when you can reasonably expect the good cells to be good and stay good, but on an older battery, one cell-group will always fail first, then the others follow more likely sooner than later.

The motor magnets setting doesn't stop anything from working, even if you have it wildly wrong.

Probably in the base of the battery, and possibly not serviceable. Every one I've seen like that has been completely encapsulated in its compartment, so not removeable. They'll most likely need to replace the whole battery carrier.

Can you explain a bit more: Was it fully working when you took it in for service, then not working when you went to collect it? Why did you take it in for service, when there's nothing serviceable in it?