I connected the motor to my Argos Emove to compare speeds. It looks to be of similar speed. If I wanted to now put this on a 26" wheel. Would it work by deceasing the voltage?
Motor Id
- Thread starter Garry Hallam
- Start date
I Just downloaded a few different Stroboscope apps from google play and Stroboscope Engineer seems to perform reasonably well on tests on my Cordless drill. Gotta test the actual motors now to compare!
You can run it at 24v to get 2/3 maximum speed, but then the power goes down by 2/3 too.
Looks like a 36v 350w motor run at 24v would be an ideal switch from a 20 to 26"wheel. Giving 233w to remain legal. Technically I guess?
Better to just try and widen the 20" frame by the looks of things.
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You can get a 24v/36v dual voltage one from Topbikekit.
T
That's perfect for a 26" wheel restricted to legal speeds at either 36v or 48v. It would also work OK on bigger wheels, but on a 29er, 36v might be better.
Check that it firs first, then check that the two spoke flanges are not more than about 6mm off-centre.
I am sure I will need to spring the frame. I normally do it 50/50. Is it not possible to do say 60/40 to centralise?
I Have also ordered some Disk brake adapters. 10 for £12.60 from Amazon (Not worth grinding a threading tool for my lathe at that price). So will have to check placement for that.
You can't entrails the spoke flanges by doing anything to the frame. If you sprung one side more than the other, the wheel would point in the erong direction. You can only do it by adjusting the spacing on each side of the axle.
Some ebike frames are designed with off-set to deal with the off-set of the motor flanges, where the drop-out is further off-centre on the tight side than the left, which means that the seat-stay and chain-stay must be longer on that side.
Makes perfect sense. As it is, the off set in the flanges is 10mm. I am going to make a spacer of say 5 mm to stay in tolerance.
It is now going onto an Apollo Gradient 27.5 full suspension with disc brakes. It is the only bike I have with 36 hole to suit the motor and I dont want to be buying more wheel sets.
These seem like a good bike to ride. I just need to change the inferior plastic suspension bush. Bearings to fit are available and it has been well documented online.
First, I need to see if it will fit the frame with the disk adaptor that I bought.
It will of course need a spacing bush behind it once I test the disc spacing
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I just managed to stretch the frame from 135 to 157mm in two steps half/half. 
The flange offset is now about 5mm.
Just need to file a little off the axle slots to seat the axle. Need a lie down then. Phew!
The flange offset is now about 5mm.
Just need to file a little off the axle slots to seat the axle. Need a lie down then. Phew!
That's the hard bit done. It's easy from now. Does the disc line up with the caliper OK? Every time I stretched that far, I had to use a washer or two behind the caliper because the it was at a slight angle to the disk, due to the frame members no longer being parallel.
If it's not inline, put a 6mm washer (or 2) between the caliper adapter and frame at the back fixing.
I made the spacer for behind the disc adaptor. Basically, I bored another adaptor out and skimmed to the width needed. There is a minimal amount of adjustment needed on the caliper but not a washers worth, I will cut some shims out of a coke can to fine tune it.
Would be nice if they made axially floating calipers like on a car.
Spokes arrive tomorrow!
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