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Agreed. I know it sounds really rough and there's probably a lot of vibration and you're sure it's mechanical. But there's a really high probability that it's electrical - honest, I've been there, been through the denial. In the end it cost me about £1.50 for some connectors to cure it. Gotta...

Petrol prices have already increased by a factor of 1,818 :eek: Lets check my maths here. I can remember paying 6shillings and 6pence for a gallon of petrol. That's equivalent to 32.5 new pence per GALLON ! Divide that into the current price per gallon (I used £1.30/litre) and you get 1818...

The bike in my avatar is front hub. I too use a handlebar box. Front hub is fine in all but extreme conditions. Some of the very steep west Wales climbs I do, produce a slight scrubbing on gravelly or mossy surfaces (Schwalbe Marathon plus tyres). Putting weight forward, ie standing up...

Nice job Dan. 20Kg sounds like a light weight to me, my hybrid (c/w panniers, two batteries etc.) comes in at 28-30. The average speed you state should put you above the 15,5mph legal cutoff most of the time, so you're range should be impressive. There is a niggle. When you have a throttle not...

Almost certainly a poor phase connection. Have a look at this thread: https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/motor-connectors.34467/#post-498396 I had lots of grindy noise and controller would overheat on long steep climbs, this cured it.

Sounds like the battery is, as VFR so eloquently put it, tired and shagged out after a long life, bit like me really :D It is showing as full on the indicator bacause it is achieving full voltage, however it has no capacity. So, as soon as you apply a load, the voltage sags to below the low...

Yes, that's exactly the one. And that was going to be my next question. Thanks SW, for that price it's worth doing especially as I have somee AA's that I use elsewhere and only have a crappy charger that's about 20 years old - think it's done it's job!

Received 4 35E's today, semi-charged all at 3.5v. Put them in the container and put the charger on until green light (around 3 hours). I now have two cells at 4.13v and two at3.62v. Is this evidence of rubbish circuitry in the bms or is this to be expected on first charge?

Didn't check the polarity, but guessing that battery charge input polarity was the problem. The chargers were Sans and had no external fuse. When the second blew we did ease out the rubber feet and take the lid of, I couldn't see any fuse. This I found very surprising as they came with the...

Strewth - truly not all cells are equal! Going for some 35E's. Having taken a closer look at the old cells I'm not surprised I was getting nowhere. One cell measured 3.5ish, two were at 1.7ish and one was at zero. Two were showing signs of leakage. They are currently to be found outside in a...

I understand - I do. It's an engineering/maths challenge. One up for garden shed engineering, long may it continue, lest we get to the point that motorcycles seem to have arrived at. It's virtually impossible to alter or even service these highly developed machines without a mechanics degree...

Just wanted to follow up on this one. I did the second bike, road tested it and all was fine. Went to charge the battery and there was a splash spark when I plugged the charger in, thought nothing of it as I thought it was just capacitors charging. But then noticed that there was no light on...

Thanks Neal. Current cells are unbranded marked only with a + and -, so almost anything will be better.

I have one of those little 4 cell waterproof packs, the one with a usb socket and jack type output/charger socket. Cells are duff and no longer holding charge, so need 4 new ones. Just went on to Nkon and got overwhelmed. Which cells? I use it to power a very bright 3 led light and...

My conversion has a throttle, I rarely use it, but the option is there. Where I do use it is for hill starts, to cover that second or two before the pas kicks in. The other circumstance is for a fast get away from a busy junction, not often here 'cos I live in the country. The third is if...

A 700c hybrid would seem to fit your description. Generally they have a 48t large cog, with the right rear cone, giving around 30/32mph at a reasonable cadence. 50 or 60mm travel forks cover all but the roughest off road, and fit it with a Suntour ncx seatpost, you've got your comfort. So...

No it won't. Direct drive motors are great for high speed riding on the flat, but will struggle and quickly become bogged down on hills, turning your precious battery power into heat. Don't be fooled by the 250w rating of most motors, it is merely the continuous rating and has nothing to do...

With a front hub you will suffer from times when the wheel 'scrubs' on steep loose or slimey surfaces. If you're on tarmac this is minimal and easily handled by an accomplished cyclist, but can catch out the unwary. Rear hub will get you more traction at the cost of making the bike tail heavy...

For comuting rear hub drive. Reliable motors, good weight distribution with a frame battery. Have a look at Woosh kits. Good customer service, will answer your questions and give backup help. Although all that's available here. Plug and play kits so, apart from cable routing, no hassle...

I don't think so. PAS will give you power (at level set) as long as you are rotating the peddles. A twist or thumb throttle will give you quick get away from lights or on hills. The bike looks like an easy one. Check the rear dropouts, if they are in the region of 130 - 140mm then this motor...